If you remember from a few weeks back, I started to update my mudroom. I wasn’t planning on a total remodel, only some decorative tweaking to update it. I started by adding a new ceiling light fixture and then painted a colorful rug on the floor. When I started to put the finishing touches on the rug is around the same time we decided to move.
With this news, my view on the house changed, including my plans for the mudroom. My plans went from decorating it with personal style to staging it to sell.
One of the first things I knew would help the house sell was installing wall cabinets above the washer and dryer. Every buyer, no matter what their taste, loves lots of storage space.
I removed the free-standing rack I was content with using for 22 years and we installed two wall cabinets above the washer and dryer. Since storage is a selling feature when selling a house, the more we can add, the better. This was our first time installing wall cabinets and I was surprised how easy it was. We got both cabinets up in an hour.
The new cabinets and freshly painted neutral walls make the room look move-in ready, no matter what the buyer’s decorating style is.
If you are on a budget and want to save money on the purchase of cabinets, check out scratch and dent retailers and thrift stores in your area. Another place to find inexpensive cabinets may be right next door. If you know of a neighbor or family member who is remodeling their kitchen, they may have no use for their old cabinets. Then, with a few supplies from your local True Value, you can make any cabinets work for your needs!
When purchasing and hanging wall cabinets, keep in mind:
- Wall cabinets are not as deep as base cabinets. They usually have a depth of about a foot. Mine measure 30″ wide x 30″ high x 12″ deep.
- Wall cabinets are usually hung around 54 inches from the floor, but when hanging them above a washer and dryer, make sure this measurement gives you enough space to open and close the washer lid.
- The addition of crown molding along the top of the cabinets creates a finished look. (Below, I share a trick on how to attach it easily even though it is not being attached to a ceiling.)
How to Install Wall Cabinets
- Wall Cabinets – I needed two so they would be the same width as the washer and dryer
- 2″ x 4″ board to use as a level
- Bubble level
- Drill and drill bit
- 3″ #10 Screws – 3 to 6, dependent on stud placement, for each cabinet
- Stud Finder
- Painter’s tape
- Cabinet knobs with screws
- Crown Molding (length determined by width and depth of cabinets)
- Two 6-inch long pieces of a 1″ x 4″ pine board
- Miter saw
- Liquid Nails
1. Remove cabinet doors for easier installation.
2. Find the wall studs using a stud finder and mark where they are with a pencil.
When you find where the studs are in the wall, instead of using a pencil mark on the wall, place a piece of painter’s tape in the area and then make your mark on the tape, not on the wall. This way you will not have pencil marks left on your wall to clean off.
3. Use a bubble level to hang a 2″ x 4″ board at the cabinet height. 54 inches is standard wall cabinet height. Pre-drill holes in wood and then use screws and a screwdriver to attach.
Note: This board is only temporary. Once the cabinets are up and secured, this board is removed.
4. Have someone hold the first cabinet on the wall while you check for level with a bubble level. Use three 3″ #10 wood screws through the back of the cabinet in line with your studs to attach the cabinet to the wall. If there are two studs behind the cabinet, use 3 more screws for a total of 6 screws to make sure the cabinet is securely fastened on the wall.
5. Butt second cabinet against first and check for level both horizontally and vertically in depth. Use 2 short wood screws to attach the two cabinets together. Use 3 – 6 more 3″ #10 wood screws to attach the cabinet to the wall in the same way you attached the first.
6. On the side of the outer facing cabinet, check that the cabinet is level vertically against wall; if needed push the narrow end of shims behind the cabinet to help level. Use a craft knife to score the excess shim and then break off excess shim.
7. Remove 2″ x 4″ under cabinets
8. Replace doors.
How to Attach Crown Molding to Wall Cabinets That Don’t Reach the Ceiling
Attaching crown molding to cabinets that don’t go to the ceiling can be a little tricky to make secure. Instead of using finishing nails to attach, we used Liquid Nails to glue wood blocks to the back side of the crown molding. Once these were dry, we placed the crown molding with the attached blocks along the top front of the cabinets. We used wood screws to attach the blocks to the top of the cabinets.
The other problem we ran into is that the cabinets we hung have sides that are about 1/4″ thinner from the front which made trying to attach the crown molding impossible without first cutting out a notch in the back of the side piece of crown molding.
1. Using a miter saw, cut crown molding into two pieces. One long piece for the front and a shorter one for the side. Cut a piece of crown molding that is a few inches longer than you need (I like to have extra length so I can cut/miter the crown again if I make a cutting mistake. This allows me to do a re-cut instead of wasting a big piece of molding.)
2. Cut one end of each piece of molding in a 45 degree compound cut.
3. Once you make the miter cut to the right length, place the molding along the top side of the cabinet and make two marks with a pencil where you need to notch the back of the crown molding so it will lay flat against the side of the cabinet.
4. Use a craft knife to cut the notch from the back.
5. Use Liquid Nails to attach two 6 inch long 1″ x 2″s or narrow pieces of scrap wood along the bottom edge of the center back of the molding as shown in the photo above. Let dry.
6. When the glue is dry, use wood screws to attach the crown molding with the attached wood pieces to the top edge of the cabinets.
7. Use caulk over any seams or gaps. Let dry. Paint if needed.
How to Attach Cabinet Knobs
1. Mark placement of hole to attach knob to cabinet with a pencil. If your cabinet doors have mitered corner joints, you will need to drill the holes for the knobs above this miter or you risk the cabinet coming apart. Two inches from the bottom edge of the door is standard. If your cabinet does not have mitered corners, you can drill the hole one inch from bottom of door.
2. Once the hole is drilled, place knob screw in back of door to attach knob. Twist to tighten.
I have one more “staging trick” to show you that I did in this room. One that could be used in any home, not just when selling one. I will share it with you soon.
This post is sponsored by True Value Hardware; thank you so much for supporting the sponsors that make In My Own Style possible.