How to Paint Anything: Yes, You Can!

Can I paint _____?      How To Paint_____?      How do I paint ____?

These are the most frequently asked questions I receive in my inbox daily. My answer is  – Yes! anything can be painted.  With technology and paint formula improvements that have been introduced in the past decade – you can paint just about anything so that it has a lasting finish is possible.

Here is a guide that will explain the steps on how to paint the most common surfaces and some not so common questions that readers have asked me.  I also included the products that I use and that can be easily found at your local hardware, paint, or home improvement store.   You can also paint anything using DIY chalk paint. Click here to learn more about making and painting with DIY chalk paint.

 

How to Paint Anything

The most important thing to know about painting anything – it is not just about the paint!

The most successful paint finishes are those were the surface was prepped correctly, manufacturers directions followed, and the paint applied under the right temperature and conditions.

The only way paint should be applied is in light coats. It is better to have more light coats then fewer thicker ones.  This has to do with the chemistry of paint, thin coats wear much slower than thick coats, because they dry harder.

Before you paint anything. Keep these three things in mind: 

1. Prep correctly and take the time to sand. No need to sand it to the bare wood with an electric sander. A 5 – 10 minute going over with medium grit sandpaper on a sanding block will do the trick. It can never hurt and will only help with adhesion.  Sanding briefly over the surface before will save you hours of frustration later when you find the paint has not adhered.   Sanding in between coats with a fine grit paper and cleaning the surface off with a tack cloth before applying the next coat will ensure a smooth finish.  

2. Only apply paint and primers in thin coats and let each one dry before applying the next coat. Use high quality brushes  they may cost a bit more, but you will be rewarded with a smoother finish, plus if you take care of them, they can last for years. 

3. Be gentle with your painted piece the first few weeks.  Paint takes time to cure.  Curing brings the paint to its maximum hardness and durability. Depending on the weather, temps, and thickness of the coats – it could take up to 3 weeks.    

Following these steps will ensure beautiful painted surfaces that will last a life time.

 

How to Paint Wood Furniture that has Paint, Stain, or Polyurethane on It.

Rough the surface with 60-100 grit sandpaper on a sanding block.  Clean off with a tack cloth.  Go over piece with a damp rag or if it is very dirty, clean with dish soap and  or TSP,  rinse well. Let dry and go over with a tack cloth again. Roll or brush on two light coats of a bonding or stain blocking primer. (Stain blocking for bare, dark, or old wood.  Gripping primer for glossy surfaces.) Let each coat dry before applying the next.   Then roll or brush on two coats of latex paint. Thin coats. Let each coat dry before applying the next.  If the piece is going to see some action or for table tops – protect the finish with non- yellowing polyurethane – 1 – 2 light coats.   I painted the dresser in my guest room following these steps.

Products I Use:  Glidden Gripper Primer for bonding over slick or shiny surfaces. Kilz Original or Kilx Maxx for bare wood or when wood knots are present. Any brand of latex paint in the sheen you desire. To protect – Minwax Polycrylic. It comes in 3 sheens

Products Needed to paint wood furniture

 

How to Paint Laminate Furniture and Cabinets

Sand with 180-grit or fine sandpaper.  Sand it gently to rough up the surface, but don’t gouge it.  Clean the surface with a cotton rag, water, and mild detergent such as dish soap.  Let dry.  Apply a  bonding primer suitable for laminate surfaces to increase paint’s adhesion. Let dry according to the manufacturer’s directions. It may take up to a week to cure.  Let it cure before rolling or spraying paint on -you will be rewarded with a lasting finish for your patience.  Apply light coats of paint, let each one dry before applying the next. To ensure a very smooth finish – sand in between coats with very fine grit sandpaper and clean the grit off with a tack cloth. Protect it with a coat or two of non-yellowing water based polyurethane.

How to Paint Laminate Furniture

How to Paint Cardboard Backdrops in Inexpensive Furniture 

If your furniture has cardboard or even foam boards as backdrops you can paint them,  but you need to make sure they are secure or else they will curl up when paint is applied.  It is best to make sure all the staples/nails are being held holding in place and then paint. If you removed the backing board to paint – you need to tape it down flat with low tack painter’s tape so it does not curl.  Use a paint and primer in one formula or one coat of primer and one coat of paint.  Don’t remove the tape until it is dry.  Either a brush or roller will work.

Products to use to paint foam core and cardboard in furntiure

How to Paint Upholstered Furniture Fabric

Mix 2 parts acrylic paint with 2 parts fabric medium with 1 part water. Mix well.  Fill a spray bottle with water and saturate the upholstery, this will make painting easier.  Use a stiff paint brush to paint the paint mixture on the fabric.   You will need at least 3 coats for good coverage.  Let each coat dry before applying the next.  You can buy fabric medium at the crafts store.

How to paint upholstered furniture fabric and products to use

 

How to Paint Fabric

Tape preshrunk fabric to plastic covered cardboard. Place cardboard inside a pillow cover so paint doesn’t soak through. Use fabric paint or an acrylic paint mixed with textile medium. Apply the paint in several thin coats to work it into the fibers with a stiff paint brush.  Heat-set if required according to paint manufacturer instructions.  Your piece can be laundered with mild detergent after 10-14 days.

How to paint fabric

 

How to Paint Drywall

Remove dust from walls and wash over them with a rag dampened with a  TSP and water mix. Scrap off loose paint and fill any holes with surfacing compound. For new drywall, apply wallboard sealer. For existing drywall, use a stain-blocking primer to help hide water stains. Apply two coats of latex paint, let dry between coats.

How to paint drywall

 

How to Paint Fake Wood Paneling

Paneling usually has a sheen that needs to be scuffed to prepare it for paint. Use a pole sander with 80 grit sandpaper followed by a good cleaning with TSP or detergent, rinse well. When dry, roll on two light coats of bonding primer – let the first coat dry before applying the second.  Then roll on your paint.  2 light coats should give good coverage.  Use a good quality 1 -2  inch wide angled brush to paint the vertical grooves in the paneling.

How to paint paneling

 

 How to Paint Brick and Brick Fireplaces

Scrub bricks with a stiff brush, water, and mild detergent, and then rinse well. For tough grime, use muriatic acid and rinse with 2 tablespoons baking soda per gallon of water.  Apply masonry sealer and then use a long nap roller to apply paint.  Use a good quality 1 -2 inch angled brush to get paint into the grout lines and crevices. If you have newly installed brick, wait 30 days before painting it.

Before I added AirStone to my fireplace, I painted the bricks white.

How to paint Brick

How to Paint Ceramics and Ceramic Tile

Ceramic is not porous and to paint it right so that it lasts for a long time you  need to use a paint  that has epoxy in it or primer/paint that are specially formulated for tile.     When working with these paints – you must make sure to get adequate ventilation in the room and wear a mask as the chemicals have a very strong smell.  You need to sand the surface with 120 – 150 grit sandpaper. Clean with water, let dry. Sand again. Clean.  Taking the time to prep the surface is what will make the paint adhere for a long time without scratching off.    Apply two coats of  primer with a high density foam roller, then two light coats of paint.   Allow paint to dry for several days or cure according to the manufacturer’s directions.

How to paint tile

How to Paint Concrete

Scrub with TSP, then bleach and water solution.  Degrease oily spots using a concrete degreaser, and repair cracks with concrete filler. Etch the surface with a 10 percent solution of muriatic acid and water. Apply a  concrete sealer and two to three coats of paint designed for concrete surfaces.

How to paint concrete

How to Paint Metal

Clean the surface with a stiff wire brush, or steel wool to remove flaking paint or rust.  Run fine to medium grit sandpaper over the surface to rough it up just a bit.  Rinse well with  a damp rag and let dry. Prime with metal primer and let dry. If metal is rusted, use  spray paint with rust inhibitors. Let dry. Apply several thin coats of paint. Let each coat dry before applying the next coat.

I like to use spray paint on pieces that have rounded metal parts. See the bed frame I painted for my daughter.  If using spray paint, hold the can 1—12 inches from the surface as you spray. Shake the can during the application to keep the color mixed. Spray lightly to avoid paint runs.  Let each coat dry for about 30 minutes or until it is dry to the touch before applying the next coat.

How to paint metal

 

How To Paint Outdoor Light Fixture

It is best to paint exterior fixtures when they are not in direct sunlight, if you are not removing the fixture, wait until a cloudy day or paint when the fixture is in the shade.   Scour the surface with steel wool and detergent to clean off rust and peeling paint. Rinse and let dry. Use a stiff paint brush to apply an exterior oil-based metallic paint. Apply light coats and work fast. Let each coat dry before applying the next coat.  See how I transformed my outdoor light fixtures with a hammered paint finish.

How to paint an exterior metal light fixture

How to Paint Glass

Start with a clean, dry surface. If you use a pattern, tape it to the outside of clear glass. With an artist’s brush, apply a thin layer of glass paint.  For a more opaque finish, apply an additional coat after the first is dry. Paint slowly to avoid bubbles.  If you want the look of frosted glass or mirrored glass use a specialty paint made to achieve the look.  I used Looking Glass Mirror paint on the back of my fireplace screen.

How to paint glass

 

How To Paint a Mirror or a Mirrored Wall

To paint mirror successfully you need to use a good “Bonding Primer”. One that I like is called,  Stix. It is in a blue can. It will do the trick.   Follow the directions on the can, but basically you will want to clean the surface well and let it dry, then roll it on.  After it is dry, paint over it. I would use a high quality roller that has rounded edges so you do not see roller lines in the finish when it is dry.  

Stix bonding Primer

How To Paint China

Wash item well with detergent and let dry.  Use craft paints made for ceramic and china painting or paint pens. Use a foam brush to apply.  Paint pens are super easy to use when you want to only paint on parts of a piece or paint a design.  Let each coat dry before adding the next coat.  Do not use before the piece until it has time to cure and  follow paint manufacturers directions that may include sealing it with a clear non- yellowing sealer or baking it in the oven to set the finish.

How to paint china

How to Paint Plastic

Sand the surfaced lightly to increase adhesion. Wash with TSP and then rinse well with water.  Be careful not to touch the clean surface, leaving oil behind. Apply spray primer and then spray paint, both designed for plastic.  Apply multiple thin coats according to the manufactures direction and let dry between coats.  I painted my desk chair from basic office black to bright and cheery white using this method.

How to paint plastic

How to Paint a Wood Floor

Scour the surface with 150-grit sandpaper, then wash the floor with TSP to remove dirt and dust.
Allow floor to completely dry – it may take a few hours to a day.  When the floor is dry, apply oil based primer and let it dry overnight.  Lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper.  Wipe the floor clean with mineral spirits using a tack cloth.  Apply the first, thin coat of paint with a natural-bristle brush ( this will create a smoother finish as nap from a roller can create a stippled finish).  Allow paint to dry 24 hours.  Apply two more thin coats, allowing 24 hours in between coats.

After the final coat of paint, only walk on the surface with socks on. If you want the finish to last – don’t put the furniture back on right away.  Oil based paint dries overnight, but takes 28 days to cure to maximum hardness.  If you must put the furniture back in, do not drag it in, pick it up and carefully place back down.

How to paint a wood floor

 

How to Paint a Vinyl Floor

You can paint vinyl, but it may not last forever, that is why I put this last.  Sand the vinyl with 220-grit sandpaper to rough up the surface and dull the shine.  Wipe it clean with a liquid deglosser. This will improve bonding.  Let it dry. Prime the floor with a gripping primer. Let dry. Roll or brush on one or two coats of porch and floor enamel, let each coat dry overnight before applying the next.

 

How-to-Paint-Anything!-Step-by-step-instructions-with-photos-of-the-products-to-use

Comments

  1. Paige says

    Hi, I want to brighten up my new apartment with paint, but have no idea how to get started! I would love to hear your experiences with painting! What was your process of deciding on a color? Did you try lots of samples or just match something in the room? Where do you buy paint? How long do you think it will take an inexperienced painter like me to do each room? Thank you for your help!

  2. says

    I really enjoyed finding your website I too am a do it yourself paint sew garden etc. I am redoing a large secretary for my daughter who has contemporary taste and grappling with going white or off white loved loved your white desk redo thanks so much for sharing!

  3. prarthana says

    i really liked everything u made… actually i wanted 2 decorate my room in artistic way.. i want 2 make it as vintage room bt i dnt knw excatly how 2 start… so pls help me if u can… :D

  4. Amy W. says

    Oh my gosh……I’ve been on your site for over an hour. You are amazing! I’m sitting in my kitchen thinking about how badly I would LOVE to paint my “oak” cabinets! Have you always been so brave? I’m so scared to start! You have inspired me tonight…..

    • says

      Hi Susan – You can successfully paint bathroom floor tiles using oil based primer and paint or epoxy paint. You need to thoroughly clean and if they are glossy – sand them. There are a few companies that sell kits especially made for floor tiles. I think Rust-oleum makes one. Do a Google search for Bathroom Floor Tile paint. I think they are kind of pricey, but cheaper then replacing tiles.

  5. Mary says

    Diane, I love your site and pin my favorites like this one and give you credit, of course. Have you ever tried to remove popcorn from the ceiling? I have read tutorials on this, but I love how you take a complex task and make it sound so easy that it makes me want to drop everything and try it. I would love your take on this task.

    • says

      Hi Mary – I have never removed a popcorn ceiling. I don’t even like painting ceilings. Removing the texture looks like a hard messy job. Sorry that I don’t have any advice for you. Best of luck with it.

    • margote olson says

      Hi Mary, I know this is a year-post, but regarding the popcorn ceiling. First, even before you try to remove it you have to find out when the popcorn ceiling was applied because in the 70s formaldehyde was used as a mixture in the PC and if you disturb it when removing it you can inhale toxic fumes which can attack your lungs and you become very ill, especially if you wet it down and then scrape. We redid our home and it had popcorn ceilings which were blown on we think from the 80s, so we just used 1/4 inch drywall and just re dry-walled the ceiling.

        • margote olson says

          Not a problem Mary. I know 40-50 years ago the industry mixed all kinds of terrible things in ceilings, floor tiles, back splashes, even claw tubs and the worst combos were asbestos and formaldehyde. I think us baby-boomers are suffering because of that now, but at least our kids and grand kids won’t have to deal with it.

  6. Sheryll & Critters. says

    Thank you Diane for all the great information. You are my ‘go to’ for anything I want to try to do.

    I thought I would add my experience with a recently tried ‘weathering new pine wood’ thingy. Do NOT use steel wool and vinegar, cause it turns Pine wood ORANGE…….. it was horrible.

    Also, the Dollar Tree has a 12 pack of sand paper for ONE dollar(and there are graduated grits)! As opposed to my home store that I paid $5 for a 4 pack of all one course grit. I have been sanding my life away lately, so I have gone through a lot and I definitely needed more than just ONE grit… I don’t have $20 for just sand paper!!!! Ya know?

    I hope to get to try painting fabric in the near future, so this information is so very valuable to me. Thank you again.

  7. Donna says

    Hi Diane,
    Thank you for this great tutorial. I want to paint the ceramic tile upper accent pieces in my guest shower. They are dark forest green. Does the post on painting ceramic tile include shower tile where it will get wet and possibly be scrubbed on occasion?

    • says

      Hi Donna – You can paint tiles in a shower, but it many not last forever. The fact that they are high accent tiles and won’t get as much water on them, is a plus. The prep is crucial. Make sure to scour the tiles with medium grit sandpaper. Follow the directions on the box. Try not to use the shower for a few days to a week to let the paint really dry. When it is cured, it can be cleaned, I would just be careful not to scrub it too hard.

  8. Helen says

    Dear Diane,

    I have looked at your work and I have to say it looks magnificent!

    On that basis, I painted a dark wood chest of drawers with waterbased paint. It went off so quickly I found it very difficult. So I added an agent that slowed the drying time down.

    The huge problem I have is that the drawers do not close. I have only painted the edges as you have suggested. If I rub down, the dark wood will show when the drawers are closed.

    What would you do?

    Regards.

    Helen

    • says

      Hi Helen – Have you tried rubbing candle wax all over the sides of the drawers? If that doesn’t work, I would probably sand the edges to the bare wood until the drawers close perfectly, then sand them down even more so that when you add a few light coats of paint, they still close. If this won’t help, let me know or send me a photo.

  9. Martyna says

    Hello,
    First of all – this is an awesome resource for someone starting up with refinishing and painting furniture. I really appreciated your posts.

    I have a question about painting a laminate piece – a chest similar to Ikea MALM – particle board wrapped in melamine. Is Gripper really a necessity? I planned on roughing up the surface, priming, and painting with home made chalk paint. Then – buffing with wax, and maybe covering the top with glass, just to make sure toddlers roughing up the alarm clock don’t rip the layers of paint off. Should I really go with Gripper, or is Killz enough on a nightstand/chest?

    • says

      Hi Martyna –

      Gripper is a primer. It is better for using on Laminate then Kilz is. Kilz is better for dark and old pieces of wood furniture that have tannins that will bleed through and change the color of your paint. Laminate is smooth and has no tannins. Gripper is made especially for smooth slick surfaces. To make sure your painted finish lasts a long time. I would sand the laminate to rough it up. Clean off the grit and apply one coat of Gripper, let dry. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper just to level any primer ridges or drips. Then use chalk paint and wax. It may take up to 30 days for the paint to cure, so if you do a scratch test the day after you paint and paint comes off, don’t think you failed. Give it time to cure.

      • Martyna says

        Thank you for your reply. I just checked my paint shelf, and it’s actually Zinsser 1-2-3, which is supposed to be a slick surface primer, too, but I was no impressed by it’s performance over wood paneling. I was advised I did not need the sanding part, and now, months after, I can scratch the paint off with my fingernail. I’ll try Gripper, and maybe scrape a panel, or two, to check, if it gives any better results.

        As my panels are probably 1/3 of the room’s height (under the chair rail), would waxing them improve the durability of the finish? I read latex will buff a bit with wax, and that chalk paint is a no-no for walls, but I see new scuff and scratch marks weekly, as my two kids push furniture around, ride tiny bikes, and so on.

        • says

          Hi Cathleen – Not exactly – Laminate is a man made product – a composite of wood and plastic and other stuff. It comes in matte and shiny and all colors and even can look like wood. I call it plastic wood. Veneer however is made of wood – very thin sheets that are adhered to the surface of cheaper wood to make it look like it is a higher quality. You can usually tell if something has veneer on if it peels up or you see a hole in the surface that looks layered around the edges. Laminate would just wear away smooth.

  10. August says

    Hi Diane,

    I made some storage bins for our nursery. They are made out of basic cardboard and held together with duct tape (classy, huh?). We do not have the budget for fabric since I’m due any day now, and I was hoping to paint them.

    I saw that you said to use the primer and paint, but I’m wondering if spray paint is possible, and if so, what kind? The boxes are already assembled, so should I take them back apart, spray them, and then reassemble?

    Please save me. We have less than a week and I’d really hate to blow $100 for our “perfect” bins.

    -August

  11. says

    Hi Diane,
    We have a wonderful landlord that doesn’t mind our upgrading & spiffing up. The master bath was our latest project. Charcoal grey & silver were the color choices along with a fabulous damask wallpaper accent on one wall. Sadly, the old bathroom counter top is a marbly-brown (like melted rocky road ice cream) & now stands out like a sore thumb. Could you offer some advice regarding old bathroom laminate counter tops? At least, I believe it’s a laminate. Is this surface paintable & if so….How?
    Oh! Also, thanks for your chalk paint information. I made all the necessary purchases & will be attacking our curio cabinet this weekend!

    • says

      Laminate is paintable, but even if its done the right way – you may have a problem with it getting wet everyday. I think I would use the Rustoleum Countertop Transformations paint. I am not sure of the colors it comes in but check them out you might find one you like. It is made to stand up to water and abuse, unlike regular paint which if applied even with a good bonding primer would start to peel in a short time. The paint is sold at home improvement stores. You could also look into using paint that is made to paint over tile. It is called Homex Tub and Tile paint.I have never used it, but have heard from others that it really smells while you apply it, but once it is dry – the smell goes away and the paint works well. There is also a new product from Rustoleumn that you brush over a surface to repel water. I forget what it is called, but is brand new. You could paint the lamintate – sand, well – gripping primer, and then paint and then used this product. The sanding and gripping primer are the most important steps to make sure you get good adhesion. If you sand the surface extremely well, chalk paint might hold up longer than regular paint and the protective wax coat would repel the water.

  12. danii says

    Hi I wanted to paint pandas on a rice cooker either on a already painted.metal on or plastic. What paints do I buy for painting a bunch pandas on it and for it to not chip off

  13. Patricia Flournoy says

    I am having white oak countertops put on a vanity. They will have an undermount sink. if I want to give them a faux marble finish what process should I use to protect them from future water damage?

    • says

      Hi Patricia –
      I used Fiddes and Sons paste wax to protect the faux marble that I painted on the top of a sideboard and it looks great. It would look good and protect at the same time. I would use a few coats. Wax then buff, then repeat to build up the layers. The downside -you will have to add more wax over time as it wears.

      You could also use Minwax Polycylic. It is a non-yellowing water based poly. It comes in both satin and gloss finishes. 2 – 3 coats light coats (let each one dry before applying the next) would give you a nice layer of protection. Either way, you will still need to make sure water that gets on it is wiped up right away.

  14. nancy says

    Hi Diane,I would like to know if you could help me out with painting on top of wallpaper I cant remove it as the underneath is really in bad shape,I removed it in my bathroom and it cost me more than I care to share I had to get a professional in, now 3yrs later I’m in the same boat again. I would appreciate any help or suggestions u could help me with.

    • says

      Hi Nancy –

      I will have to add how to do this to the post. You can paint over your wallpaper as long as it is adhered well. If it is, make sure all the seams are glued down. If the seams are raised you can sand them a bit before painting. Clean the walls with TSP or detergent and water. Rinse and let dry. So that the paper does not raise as you paint – use oil-based primer. Latex is water based and water can wrinkle paper. I would use Kilz Original. It dries in 30 minutes. If you apply two coats, letting the first dry before you apply the second you should create a good seal and be able to use a latex paint over it. It used to be that you always used all oil-based products over wallpaper, but as long as the paper is sealed well with the Kilz, it should be fine. If you don’t mind painting with oil-based paint – then it is best to use that.

  15. Helen says

    Dear Diane – I would love to know how to do art on ceramic tiles that will stand up to heat. Is there a type of paint and sealer I could use? I love to do art projects and think that using tiles could be a form of art for the kitchen, but if I set something hot on them, I don’t want them to become scratched. What about epoxying them? Would that work? And what type of paint will adhere to ceramic tiles without sanding them? I would like them to remain shiny. – Helen

    • says

      Hi Helen – The only product that I know of is the tile paint I wrote about in the post. Rustoleum and Homax each make one as well as a few other companies. They make specialty paint made just for tiles. It is epoxy paint. Look in the paint aisle at your local home improvement store to find it.

  16. Roz says

    Just discovered your site–LOVE it! I’d like to paint some white-washed wicker furniture to look more like pecan or natural. Any suggestions?

  17. Jamie says

    Thanks so much for taking the time to create this amazing guide. It’s so informative, I’m going to print & laminate it to keep with my painting supplies!

  18. says

    Can terrazzo floors be painted? Our 1930s cottage has badly damaged terrazzo flooring and the cost to remove would be prohibitive. We do not want to make any major decisions about what to cover it with so I would like to paint it for the time being. Can it be done, and if so, what should we do?

    • says

      Hi Anne –

      You can paint it, but it will require a few steps. Floors in general are the hardest to paint since everything has to be removed from the room and you have to get down on your hands and knees to do most of the work. I just started repainting a wood floor in my mudroom and it is hard to keep everyone out while I paint and allow the paint to dry. I would try painting the floor in one small room first and see how it adheres and holds up – then proceed to another room.

      The prep work is crucial and is where you need to put the most effort. Is the terrazzo sealed or waxed? You would need to strip this first or sand it off. Once the finish is removed and it is bare floor, sand it well to rough up the surface. There are stone etching products and garage floor paints made for painting over stone, but they are for exteriors, not for indoors since the fumes would be toxic.

      I would try making DIY chalk paint with Plaster of Paris and Calcium Carbonate powder. This makes into a very hard and durable paint finish. If I were painting a stone or tile floor, this is what I would use.

      Once the floor is sanded and roughed up, roll or brush on one very light coat of gripping primer (Glidden and Benjamin Moore both make one)-let it dry, then apply one more very light coat. Let dry. Then apply one to two coats of paint, but again – light coats only and let each coat dry at least for 8-12 hours, before applying the next. This will help with adhesion. Once the paint is dry, you can seal it with a non-yellowing polyurethane. I like water based poly. Zinsser Ultimate Polyurethane is a good one for floors. I used it on my wood staircase steps – over 2 years ago and it has held up wonderfully.

      The key to making the project a success is the making sure the surface is free of a wax top layer and sanded well so the paint has something to adhere to. In high traffic areas, you may want to place a throw rug or runner down to help protect the finish even more.

      You can find the DIY Chalk Paint recipe in this post: http://inmyownstyle.com/diy-chalk-paint-recipes

  19. Nan says

    I appreciate your website so much. I was hoping to find an instance of applying some sort of plaster finish over a wooden coffee table top to mimic stone. Have you done this?

    • says

      Hi Nan – I have not done it, but it could probably be done with one of the stone making forms they use to make concrete walkways. I think Quickcrete or one of the big cement companies makes the plastic 16 – 18″ square forms. Ed and I used a brick pattern for a base under our deck to store outdoor items when we first moved into our house. Home Depot and Lowes sell them. It may not work on a tabletop, but could give you an idea of how to do something similar with plaster to look like stone. I would also look in the crafts store in the tile aisle. There are many cool new products that mimic the look of stone.

  20. krista says

    Hi, Love your site,very in depth…I was wondering if I could chalk paint my stainless steel fridge,I can`t take the finger print marks any longer.

    • says

      Hi Luz-

      It can be painted… anything can if you prep correctly and use the right products. There are a few Tub and Tile types of paint products out on the market that will do the trick. All paint stores carry them -Homex, Tub and Tile, Rustoleum for countertops are a few that I know of. They smell awful so be prepared to ventilate well when painting. You could also rough up the surface well with a medium grit sandpaper, clean it well and let dry, then roll on a thin coat of oil-based primer like Kilz Original or Zinseer 123. Let it dry well and then roll or brush on another light coat. Let it dry. Then use a high quality paint made for high water areas like Advance by Benjamin Moore in a high gloss or semi-gloss. It does not need any poly over it. It is highly durable alone.

  21. Valerie says

    How do I paint over concrete sealer (walls are painted with it) and how do I paint over concrete sealer that has been previously painted (on the floors)? Thanks! Love your blog!

    • says

      Hi Valerie –

      It can be painted over successfully with an epoxy paint, but that is pretty toxic and the smell overpowering especially if you have a large area to paint over. I know that paint companies come up with many new innovative products every year that I am sure would do the job for you in a less toxic way. Most floor and porch paints on the market now may do the job. I think no matter what type of paint you use, you will have to sand and/or prime the surface so the paint really sticks.

      I would go to a brand name paint store in your area like a Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. They will know exactly what products to use and how to do it since they specialize in all things paint. Home Improvement stores may sell a non-epoxy product for painting over sealed concrete too, but I find not all the workers in the paint department are as knowledgeable as the people that work at stand alone brand paint stores are.

  22. Cindy says

    My daughter wants to use a wood bench as her guest book for her wedding. Can you tell me what type of paint pens I should use and a sealant that will not smear the paint pens. I have read that many people did not use the right products together and ended up with a smeared mess on what should have been a wonderful memory piece. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks!!!
    Cindy

  23. Carol says

    I am using chalk paint for the first time on a wood bookcase. I used your ‘favorite’ chalk recipe (plaster of paris and calcium carbonate). Paint goes on nice and smooth, but thickens rapidily as I paint. Do I just keep adding water to maintain the consistency?

  24. jan gartside says

    I have a beautiful step ladder in bare wood. I would like to give at as a wedding present, to be used as a pot stand for the garden. I would like to decorate this with details of the wedding, date. venue. flowers worn etc etc….I do not want to paint the whole steps just decorate them . How do I go about this. Do I seal the bare wood first and then paint on the decoration and then polyurethane. I would like it to be weatherproof. Help please????

    • says

      Hi Jan –

      You do not have to seal the bare wood first. I would lightly sand the areas where you want the decorations and then paint them on – make sure not to apply the paint too thick. Apply a second coat if needed. Let the paint dry for about 24 hours and then use a water based poly for exteriors. Minwax Helmsman Urethane- the water based one would be good to use. It should not yellow the paint. Any poly or sealer that is not water based will yellow the paint colors.

  25. Joe says

    Hello Diane – Question re “How to Paint Wood Furniture that has Paint, Stain, or Polyurethane on It.” I’m going to repurpose my old office furniture (the same polyurethane type finish as found on basic big box oak kitchen cabinets – but more unique and in very good condition). I essentially plan to tear it down and strategically place pieces as wainscoting at various spots in a retirement cottage (just can’t let go completely). I intend to use one of your DIY chalk paint recipes. My question is whether it’s preferable to “Roll or brush on two light coats of a bonding or stain blocking primer. (Stain blocking for bare, dark, or old wood. Gripping primer for glossy surfaces.) … as you suggest on this page re how to paint anything? Or, should I just follow your chalk paint instructions (i.e. sand, clean, thin coats, etc.)? I have the time and desire to do whatever will get the best results, but don’t want to waste effort or overdo the process, as there are a lot of pieces.

    BTW – I’ve read a lot of blogs and website articles on chalk painting. Despite what my question might suggest, I find yours is by far the most thorough and easy to understand. You’ve made me anxious to get started. Thanks. Joe

  26. Suzi says

    Hi – great info !!
    I bought a stainless steel light base from Ikea but
    sadly it doesn’t look right with the decor. Can I transform
    it so it looks like dull brass ?!

    • says

      Hi Suzy – Look for spray paint that say antique brass or gold, not Brite Brass. Some brands are naturally more brown than yellow. Rustolem makes one in their metallic line. I believe it has a primer already in it. Just clean the base well and lightly go over it with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean off the grit and spray one very light coat on. Keeping the can about 10- 12 inches away from the base. Wait about 5 minutes and repeat. Continue painting with 5 mins in between each coat. Then let it dry in a dust free area for a few days.

  27. says

    I need to paint my foam inserts, for my jewelry trays. I am a jewelry vendor, at festivals, and the sun is a killer on my white, foam inserts. I have researched, and the only thing I come up with is, use a water based paint or spray paint. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You

    • says

      Hi Angel – Spray paint will eat the foam. I would use water based acrylic craft paint. Brush or roll on light coats letting each one dry before applying the next. To seal the paint, you could use a decoupage medium. I like Martha Stewart Durable Matte Decoupage medium – it is not as thick as Mod Podge. I used it over these cardboard box organizers.

  28. Toni B. says

    I’m painting a metal plant stand, using Clark + Kensington Paint & Primer in One and I’ve made chalk paint using this paint plus calcium carbonate. (2 Parts Paint and 1 Part Cal. Carbon.)

    I’ve read I can do this, rather than using the more expensive brand of all-ready prepared Chalk Paint. (done that). Everything I’ve read indicates that home-made chalk paint can work on any surface.

    I’ve tested my HMCP on a small picture frame. It hasn’t dried yet and it looks alright. Doesn’t seem as chalky as projects I’ve made with expensive Chalk Paint but I’m trying to conserve.

    My questions to you are:

    Am I throwing away good money by trying to make my own chalk paint? Would you use a paint with a primer such as the one in the above-described application? Should I use a non-acrylic latex flat paint? Is there one paint brand you prefer to others?

    Would really appreciate your comments.

    Love what you’ve done with many projects, and I’m inspired by your talent and tenacity.

    Thank you for giving this query your attention.

    • says

      Hi Toni – I make all my own chalk paint and will never ever paint a piece of furniture with any other formula. I love how the pieces come out, so much better than just painting it with latex that leaves a rubbery sticky feel to the finish as well as cost saving. The Calcium Carbonate Powder with a little Plaster of Paris makes up one very durable painted finish. You can always add more for a more chalky finish. Just mix it in water first to dissolve, then add to the paint.

      I like a little distressing, but not too much aging. I like my pieces to look bright. Any time you use a paint and primer in one paint formula you run the risk of the paint turning to sludge. That is when you waste money. I always use plain ole latex.

      My go to when painting furniture is to use Glidden Premium in a satin finish. It mixes up into a great consistency every time I make it. You can use any finish as it will all go flat once you add the CCP and PoP. I just like the way the satin looks when mixed. Just make sure the paint label does not say Paint + Primer in one formula.(They have updated a few labels recently) I stay away from any paint with a primer or acrylic in it when making chalk paint. Some brands don’t mark it and use words like “Plus”. When you see this it usually means it has a primer or acrylic in it.

  29. Ida says

    Hello Diane, Thank you for sharing! What brought me to this page was the caption “how to paint ANYTHING” since I have been struggling with painting dried pandan leaves (close to plam tree leaves). I know… wrong deparment. But given your knowledge and experience I was hoping you could have tips. The leaves are dried and the surface looks and feels like laminated bamboo with a thin layer of resin on it so you can feel the parallel fibers under your fingers and a waxy surface. Except that dried pandan is supple. I tried to clean the leaves with acetone, let dry, applied a primer (acrylic resin), let dry 3 hours, applied an acrylic paint, let dry 18 hours. A gentle scratching will rub off the paint and the primer underneath. Intuitively, what would you try? Thank you again.

    • says

      Hi Ida – You may just have to wait a few weeks for the paint to cure. In paint drying land – paint may feel dry to the touch after 18 hours, but it has not cured. That could take a few weeks depending on the dryness of the air.

      You could try a water-based gripping primer. Glidden makes one called Gripper and Benjamin Moore’s is called AquaGrip. You may also want to look into a Melamine paint. They are a bit pricey, but it is made to adhere to shiny smooth surfaces. Chalk paint may work very well also. It is a flat finish, but you could add soft wax over it once it is dry and buff the leaves with a soft cloth to bring up the shine. Once you paint the leaves – you may simply just have to wait for the paint to cure so it won’t scratch off. It could take up to a month on a slick surface.

  30. Shelley says

    I want to know if I can use artist’a acrylic paint for some small work on a porcelain sink?

  31. Hollie Williams says

    I’ve been thinking of painting an old metal filing cabinet which just NEVER gets used. I’m unsure whether to use spray paint, metal paint or chalk paint! I’m looking for a vintage type look so would want to distress & think chalk paint might be the best to achieve this – however I have not used chalk paint on mental before!
    Thank you x

  32. Betty Lustila says

    Diane,

    I love your creativity, I’m in the process of finding and/or creating a stencil to make a painted rug design on my deck. Have you used stencils? If so, what did you create and how did it work for you?

    Thanks,
    Have a Blessed Day!

  33. margote olson says

    Hi Di, I have a couple of vintage ugly brass hurricane lamps which i’d like to paint. Do I use your method above on “How to paint metal” or is there a special paint to use for brass. Also, do you have any ingenuous ideas for painting lamps like the hurricane ones that don’t have a lamp shade per se. Can i use the chalk paint recipe that i made from you with calcium carbonate? But i need some ideas on colours. Thank you in advance.

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