How To Get the Perfect Paint Finish

by Diane Henkler on 07/27/2012

Furniture Painting Tips

Last weekend one of my friends came over and wanted to see what I was working on. Right now my garage is filled with hand-me-down furniture that I am transforming with paint, production-line style for my daughter to use in her apartment.   Two of the items are metal and my friend was surprised that you could paint metal. She didn’t think you could.  “Yes, a big yes, I told her – you can paint ANYTHING!”  Over the years I have painted quite a lot of things and have figured out what the right products are and what formulas work to give me professional results every time.

Here is a daybed frame that is getting painted. It has both metal and wood parts. It is in great shape, but the black and wood tone color are not in my daughter’s decorating scheme.  I know with the right products that I can paint this to look brand new – like it came directly from the factory.

Before

Furniture Painting Tips

My secret – any of these products.  I would not even think about painting this bed or any piece of furniture without one of these primers on it first. They are my go-to products – tried and true and have never let me down. Normally I use a brush or roller, but for this bed I used the Kilz spray primer since the bed has all round surfaces – hard to paint evenly with a brush or roller.

the-Best-Paint-Primers

I didn’t always know to use these products and learned the ins and outs of painting surfaces the hard way when I was younger.

Learning The Hard Way #1:  The Need For Gripping Primer

When Ed and I were newlyweds in our first house we were given the armoire that is now in my Studioffice.   We used it in a breakfast room as a pantry back then  – it was orange.  I was 24 at the time and very excited to put my style on it and paint it.  Easy peasy – right?  Wrong!  When the paint was dry – it rubbed right off. I was horrified!  What a big HUGE mess – all the detailing and curved top.  Yikes!  I had to go over the entire surface with a wet rag and scrub until it all came off. It is a big piece of furniture and I had to stand on a ladder to do most of it. Not fun.  Off to the paint store I went to find out what I needed to do.  Gripping primer was the answer.

What I Use It On:  Anything that has a bit of a shine or gloss finish, even after sanding – I use 2 light coats of gripping primer first letting each coat dry before applying the second. Then I paint.

It now comes in a grey color which helps when using deep paint colors. It will bring out the color and lessen the need for more coats of paint.

I painted my kitchen cabinets over 10 years ago using Glidden Gripper primer before putting on 2 coats of semi-gloss Sherwin Williams latex.  They still look newly painted. Benjamin Moore also makes a good gripping primer called Aqua Grip. 

Learning The Hard Way #2: The Need For Stain Blocking Primer

Around the same time – being newlyweds in our first house we were eager to make it ours and built a built-in bookcase in our living room. We stained it and after a week I didn’t like the dark color and decided it would look better white. “Just roll on some white paint”, I thought – and I did.  It looked great and I was one happy homeowner.  Fast forward to a week later and it was no longer white – it was pink – Egads!   Back to the paint store I went and learned that stain bleeds through paint.  I needed a stain blocking primer and Kilz Original formula was what they gave me.

Kilz comes in many different formulas. I have tried them all and the Original is the best – two light coats and everything is sealed and bonded to the surface.   Don’t let the oil formula scare you. It smells just a little, but unlike most oil-based paints – it dries in 30 minutes.  You will have to clean your brush out with mineral spirits or use a disposable one if you don’t want to clean it.

I used the spray Kilz for the first time on a lamp a few years ago and was not expecting the same results – but I was pleasantly surprised with smooth excellent adhesion – which is the most important factor when painting over furniture.

What I Use It On:  I use Kilz Original when I am painting over a piece of furniture that has a stained or polyurethane finish.  It will block any stain, resin, or oil from knots in the wood from bleeding through.  It can be tinted if you are going to use a mid-tone or dark paint color.

I have used one of these products on every piece of furniture I have ever painted since.

Sneak peek of the daybed frame After

See the nice smooth finish on the wood and metal parts.   That is the result of Kilz Original spray primer and Rustoleum semi-gloss white. I only had to lightly sand over the wood posts with a piece of medium grit sandpaper to rough up the surface just a bit. Not even 5 minutes of sanding.  The primer does the rest.  Bonds and allows the paint to adhere better so that 10 years from now – the finish looks just as good as the day you painted it.  The smooth finish is also the result of patience – light coats only and letting each coat dry before applying the next.   I have been rewarded with a factory-like finish and a big hug from my daughter for my efforts.

Spray painted furniture tips

 

When using the spray formula of any primer or paint wear a paint mask and/or respirator and do it outside or in an open area with lots of ventilation. I use plastic sheeting to place large objects on so the overspray doesn’t get on everything.

Best Spray paint primers for furniture

I will show you the finished bed and the rest of the furniture I am working next week when it is all set up in my daughter’s apartment.

Stay tuned for a new page here on my blog.  It will be where you can find the steps on how to paint anything. It is part of my new site organization that I will be unveiling soon.

How to paint any surface

 

 

 

 

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{ 48 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Kathie July 27, 2012 at 2:22 pm

What great tips! I didn’t realize stain would bleed through. Glad you told me! I shared this post on Facebook (such good advice)! I look forward to your “how to paint anything” page!

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2 Becki July 27, 2012 at 2:55 pm

Thanks for the wonderful tips – very timely as I am hoping to paint our dining room table soon!

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3 Loa July 27, 2012 at 3:20 pm

These are great tips! I have an old dresser (it looks a lot like your giftwrap and Mod Podge dresser) that I want to update for my tween daughter but it has a formica looking top with a high polish. Do I just sand and use the gripping primer on that?

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4 Diane July 27, 2012 at 5:47 pm

Hi Loa – Formica can be painted. :) Sand it first with a fine grit sandpaper – you don’t want to leave scratch marks in it. Clean it with TSP (sold in the paint aisle) or detergent and rinse well. Let dry. Roll or spray on 1 light coat of the bonding or gripping primer. I use Glidden – but any “bonding primer” will work. Let dry. If you see any dust or paint lines – gently go over with the fine grit sandpaper and then use a tack cloth to clean the surface before applying another light coat of the bonding primer.
(Tack cloths are sold in the paint dept. It is cheesecloth with a sticky finish that picks up dirt and dust from a surface.)
Once that is dry, apply 2 -3 light coats of your paint – let each one dry before applying the next and check in between each coat that nothing is sticking in the paint – like a bug or piece of hair. Just go over gently with the sandpaper to remove it, clean with the tack cloth and then apply the next coat. Let dry and cure for a few days before using the dresser. If the dresser has any angled areas and you are rolling and brushing the paint on – get the best paint rollers/brushes. Purdy makes the best. A low nap or foam roller and a 1 – 2 inch angled Purdy paint brush. I think the green label is for ultra smooth surfaces. It will say right on the label. Wooster makes good brushes, too. :)

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5 Loa July 29, 2012 at 10:09 am

Thanks, Diane! This is just the extra bit of information that I needed to take on this project. I knew it could be done, but I was hoping to get it right the first time since it will be in my 11 year old’s room. Now I need to go shopping and get my supplies!

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6 Glinda Fox July 27, 2012 at 3:34 pm

I have that same bed and love what you did with it! I’ll be moving soon so this is a great idea to change the look! Thanks for the perfect paint job tip!

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7 Sandra July 27, 2012 at 8:10 pm

Great tips, I am looking forward to seeing you daughter’s new place. She sounds like a wonderful young woman. I am sure you are extremely proud of her, and so glad to have her close by!

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8 Sandra July 27, 2012 at 8:12 pm

I voted for my favorite room! Thanks for the opportunity to win.

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9 Sandra July 27, 2012 at 8:12 pm

I follow you on my Google Reader. Hope I win, that would be a great prize!

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10 jacky @ small home love July 27, 2012 at 10:57 pm

Thanks so much for the tips. I recently painted some shelves with a paint primer combo and the paint was peeling right off just by touching it. I’m going to try your primers next time.

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11 Jaye @ Just Trying to Make Cents of it All July 28, 2012 at 11:07 am

I learned a long time ago that Gripper is the KEY TO LIFE! I had never heard of it until my very non-DIY sister (truly NON) told me about it! Now I laugh because she of all people gave me the best hint! I go through gallons of this stuff and I even have them tint it darker when I need to! Same as you, in my eyes – anything can be painted!

I have never tried spray painting primer though but I have happen to have a day bed just like yours (must be popular) that I want to paint for the grandkids room so I’ll be trying it. I wish Gripper came in a spray paint!

Great information!

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12 Designed Decor July 28, 2012 at 1:46 pm

What great painting tips! Getting ready to paint a few furniture pieces so knowing about the stain blocker is great! Thanks again!

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13 melinda ke July 28, 2012 at 4:57 pm

I’m so excited to see this post! I just bought a fabulous used dresser that I plan on painting and this will be my first time painting any furniture! I would love to hear if you seal your furniture after painting? This is something I don’t know much about and I’m not sure if it’s necessary? I have heard some sealants cause the finish to yellow over time and I would hate to have that happen after putting so much time and work into it. I love your blog and I can’t wait to see the new page you are working on for how to paint! :)

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14 Diane July 28, 2012 at 7:20 pm

Hi Melinda -

I do not put sealer on. Paint formulas today are very durable and I do not feel it is needed. The only time I seal the surface is if I did decorative painting on top of rolled on paint. For instance- drew a monogram or stenciled a design on the front of drawers. I use non-yellowing water-based polyurethane for that.

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15 melinda ke July 28, 2012 at 10:29 pm

Thanks Diane!

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16 Judy July 29, 2012 at 4:41 pm

Paint intimidates me-your step by step instructions have given me the confidence to start some long delayed projects!

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17 office design July 31, 2012 at 7:22 am

Amazing work!! I used your method at my house and i really got perfect paint finish. I enjoyed reading you blog and all the links i found is very useful for me.

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18 Terry Moore August 5, 2012 at 4:59 pm

I know a lot of people will be happy that you wrote this article. Great job and I agree!!!

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19 Elisabetta August 6, 2012 at 4:46 pm

Thank you. Your information and inspiration are greatly appreciated!!

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20 Vada Shields August 10, 2012 at 1:36 pm

Absolutely love all your helpful step by step directions! When painting a plastic deck box, do I need to sand & use a base paint? I’m using a spray paint that is supposed to adhere to plastic & does not state these are needed (& I do not want to scratch the plastic). It needs to be durable as it will need to be able to withstand some sun!

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21 Diane August 10, 2012 at 6:50 pm

Hi Vada – I have used the plastic spray paint on my office chair. It has held up great. I am not sure about outside wear. Just know that anything that sits in the sun all day will wear much faster than anything interior. The way to make it really adhere is to spray on only very light coats. Thick coats will end up just peeling off. Better to spray very light coats every hour or until the previous coat is dry and not tacky. Don’t spray over drying spray paint or it will blister right before your eyes. It might take lots of light coats until it is evenly covered, but is worth the time in the long run. It will never hurt to rough up the surface with some fine grit sandpaper first. You don’t want to scratch the plastic, but it can only help the paint adhere. Between every coat you can run the sandpaper over it and clean off with a tack cloth before applying the next coat. When you are all done you will be rewarded with a nice smooth finish. If it is really hot and humid where you live you may want to wait for it to cool off if you are painting outside. It really does make a difference. Each can should state what the ideal temp should be when using the paint.

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22 kat August 15, 2012 at 2:42 pm

Let me start by saying, I did not use a primer. I painted my shower curtain rod. Did 3 thin layers. Let it dry for 24 hrs. The curtain rings are scratching up the paint. Is it because I didn’t use primer? enough coats? let it cure long enough? does it need some kind of clear sealer? Hoping you can advise.

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23 Diane August 15, 2012 at 3:04 pm

Hi Kat – If the paint is just scratching up the surface of the rod and not peeling or chipping the paint, then I think it is just the surface of the rings that is scratching the paint. They probably scratched the bare metal rod before, but you just didn’t see it as much. You can seal the paint with a non-yellowing polyurethane which should help in not only protecting the paint, but helping the rings glide across the rod. If the paint is chipping and peeling then it is because the surface was not prepared or primed correctly.

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24 kat August 15, 2012 at 3:43 pm

Thank you! I will try that.

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25 Kelly August 17, 2012 at 12:05 am

Great lesson on primers! I’ve been painting LOTS of furniture lately and will definitely be bookmarking this : )

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26 Athena August 25, 2012 at 7:35 am

The article is great. My grandma gave me some furniture for the new house but the color is too dark and i wan to paint them white. I will try to find the materials that you suggested, and start working…

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27 Becky September 22, 2012 at 8:48 pm

Hi,
We are about to tackle our son’s kitchen. The cabinets are dark stained wood with the old hardware from an old 1950′s home. The countertops are well-worn formica. I LOVED your paint re-do of your kitchen, but do you have any DIY ideas to replace the countertops and sink?

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28 Diane September 22, 2012 at 10:29 pm

Hi Becky – Rustoleum makes a paint kit that is made just for counter tops. I have seen it used by many blogger’s. It comes in many different colors and is not hard to use. It is sold at most home improvement stores. Here is a link to the site where you can see the colors and read a little bit more about it. http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgresourcecenter.asp?sn=pro&pid=32

As far as the sink – that is a little harder to do anything about, except replace if it is a color that is dated or won’t go with the new color scheme. You could try cleaning, polishing, or touching up the finish if it is porcelain, but in the long run since it gets wet all the time, your time and money is better spent installing a new one. If you want to save money check out a local Habitat for Humanity ReStore or a local thrift or salvage yard to find a nice used one.

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29 Cindy January 12, 2013 at 10:19 am

With all the Primer + paints (glidden) , do you still recommend primer before painting?

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30 Cindy January 12, 2013 at 10:20 am

I know sanding is a must.

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31 Diane Henkler January 12, 2013 at 11:02 am

Hi Cindy – I have used Primer/Paint in 1. They do what they say – so you do not have to prime, but they are a different consistency than paint by itself and you do have to let them cure a few days before you see good adhesion. They are a thinner consistency – at least the ones I used – Behr and Glidden and in my projects they did not produce a creamy lustrous finish that I like to see on the objects I paint. I much prefer the look of paint by itself under a separate primer – especially when you see the object – say a door at an angle when the light hits it. I don’t think I would ever use one again for this reason, not because they don’t work.

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32 Jane January 16, 2013 at 6:19 pm

What a wonderful common sense guide. I have learned so much! I’m trying to put together a game plan for painting the entire 1st level of my home, including baseboards, window frames and doors. So what’s the problem??? I have a dog that occasionally likes to scratch at the door when we get home – poor little guy gets so excited! Any new paint job could be ruined in a matter of days. So, I’m thinking I need to use a couple coats of gripper primer, a good satin paint, then perhaps a couple coats of poly to protect the doors from his nails. Do you think the poly will stand the test of time and the excitement of a crazed schnauzer?

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33 Diane Henkler January 17, 2013 at 12:49 pm

Thnanks Jane -
I have the same problem in my house. A have two dogs – one little, one bigger and they both scratch at the door :) Using the gripper primer and high quality paint will help along with the poly, but the door will show signs of scratching eventually. There is no way to prevent it that I know of that will keep it looking good for the long run. I have not tried them myself, but they do make clear door shields that go on doors to protect them. If you do a Google search for “Door Shields” you will find a few types.

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34 Nancy January 17, 2013 at 8:08 pm

With painting you always need patience to get the finish you are looking for. Good job! The bed looks fantastic!

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35 Diane Henkler January 18, 2013 at 10:02 am

Thanks Nancy – and a good paint brush :) Happy Weekend

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36 molly February 14, 2013 at 8:42 pm

do you need to sand the metal part of the daybed as well? the daybed i plan on painting is all metal. also, i have rambunctious kids in the house, should i plan on spraying on a coat of polyeurothane? thanks

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37 Diane Henkler February 17, 2013 at 1:56 pm

HI Molly – I would – just a light going over with a sanding block with medium grit sandpaper on it. It is worth the extra step to ensure you get perfect adhesion. Spray poly is fine to use – just make sure it says – “non-yellowing” on the label. If not it will change your paint color to one with an orange cast. I think Rustoleum makes one. Blue can with a photo of a piece of furniture on the label.

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38 Kay February 24, 2013 at 8:48 pm

I have a dresser that I sanded, primed and painted black with Behr satin paint. Can I apply a clear poly to help protect the finish? This dresser is for my grandkids.

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39 Diane Henkler March 12, 2013 at 11:01 pm

Yes – clear poly would be perfect. Polycrylic is a brand that I have used and like the finish it produces.

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40 phyllis March 7, 2013 at 11:34 pm

Hey Diane i have a wooden chest that has been painted a glossy dark green.I would like paint it a black antique look. How would I go about this process. I have never painted any furniture. Hoping to be a success! Anxious to hear from you. Thanks

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41 Diane Henkler March 8, 2013 at 9:15 am

Hi Phyllis – If you are new to painting and aging furniture the easiest way would be to paint the chest black with black chalk paint. Run sandpaper over the entire surface to rough up the glossy finish a bit so that the paint has something to stick to. If you want to distress the edges to further the antique look, also make sure to sand a few edges and places where natural wear and tear would occur (edges, drawer fronts by pulls, etc) to the bare wood before painting to remove the green color. Remember where these areas are so after you paint the piece black you can go back over the areas to age the piece without the green paint showing. Paint over the whole piece with black chalk paint. Sand over the areas where the green was previously removed. Once that is done, I would add some Rub and Buff (craft stores or online) in Antique Gold over some of the areas and then a coat or two of clear paste wax. Apply the wax, let dry for about 20 minutes and then buff with a soft cloth to bring out the shine. Repeat until you get the shine you desire.

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42 Dianna Lopez March 13, 2013 at 5:31 pm

I am so glad i found you! I love all the great tips! thank you

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43 Tiphanie March 17, 2013 at 12:27 pm

I am doing my first project, a metal loft bed. I was told to sand. I’m going on 4 hours of sanding now. : / It was in really bad shape so i guess its good that i did, but ugh if the primer would have just worked would have saved a lot of time. I’m still going to prime it with rust-oleum painters touch primer. And then paint with rust-oleums wildflower blue. Spray painting. My only question is do i clean it after i sand it? Thanks!

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44 Diane Henkler March 17, 2013 at 1:34 pm

Hi Tiphanie – That’s a lot of sanding, must have been a real mess. Yes, clean off all the sanding girt with water. Rinse the rag and go over a few times to make sure all the grit is off. Use a tack cloth if possible and use it in between coats, too to clean off any dust, dirt, bugs, hair, etc that may have landed on your drying paint. If you don’t, your painted coat will have teenie bumps of grit in it. Rustoleum primers are great – just remember- light coats, not heavy ones or you will be back to square one.

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45 Sheryll & Critters. March 18, 2013 at 10:25 am

I just found a blog on Hometalk where the gal mention Diane did a blog and I immediately knew she meant you…… cause you are so good.

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46 Pat March 19, 2013 at 8:15 pm

I have a pine dining chest with glass doors that I would like to paint black to match an Arhaus buffet. The dining chest has a laquer or some other factory finish over it, but the pine itself is a light, more natural looking color. How should I proceed? Do I need to sand the entire piece or just use the Glidden gripper alone? What paint would you recommend I use to get a nice satiny black finish? Any help you can give will be much appreciated!

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47 Rhonda June 17, 2013 at 10:48 am

How long, after you prime with Glidden Gripper, do you have to wait before you can do a light sand to smooth out the brush marks?

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48 Diane Henkler June 17, 2013 at 10:55 am

It dries to the touch in about 30 minutes, but I would wait 2 hours at least – more if you are working in a humid environment. You don’t want to rush it, better to make sure it is completely dry so you won’t end up sanding any still damp spots and creating a mess.

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