Happy Monday everyone. I have been up to some decorative painting last week and finally have the piece I was working on completed.
After stripping the wood cabinet that sits on top of an unmatched sideboard in my kitchen, I wanted to update the sideboard to help make the pieces look better paired.
In my next kitchen I would dearly love to have white Carrara Marble counter tops. That may be a long time coming, if ever. Not one to do without when I can see a way to get the look by doing a little creative DIY, I decided it would be fun to create faux Carrara marble painting on the top of the sideboard.
I painted the rest of the sideboard using DIY Plaster of Paris chalk paint and distressed the edges and then used paste wax to add protection and shine. I used the paint color Alabaster by Sherwin Williams. It is the color of the trim molding in my house. It is not too white or too off-white, making it go perfectly in the white/off-white color scheme of my kitchen.
Remember how it looked before I stripped the cabinet? Two non-matching pieces to make one to fit and fill the space. The white sideboard looks the same in the photos, but now it is a bit whiter with distressing around the edges. Exposing the raw wood by distressing the paint finish – helps the pair look matched.
I also switched out the gold pulls for glass.
How to Paint Faux Carrara Marble
supplies needed:White primer – Kilz if painting over a previously finished surface, Gripping primer if painting over a painted surface. Eggshell or satin finish White paint 3 colors of grey craft paint – light, medium, and dark . I used Apple Barrel Light Grey, Martha Stewart Crafts Wet Cement, and Apple Barrel Dark Grey. I also used white and black to produce a few more shades of grey to make the veins look varied in color. Smooth foam roller, and roller tray Feather, Sea sponge, Soft paint brush, paper towels Toothbrush Small mixing bowls Water in spray/misting bottle Medium and Fine grit sandpaper Tack cloth or damp rag Paste Wax and rags to apply and buff Optional: a piece of actual marble to help visualize the veining. Scrap piece of wood to practice veining before moving on your actual piece of furniture.
To make the paint technique look as real – it is important to make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. Fill in any dents or holes with wood filler or Spackle. Sand smooth, then paint. Sand in between each coat with fine or wet sand paper to level each coat of paint. Clean sanding grit before applying the next coat.
1. Sand surface smooth with medium grit sandpaper. Remove dust and grit with a tack cloth or damp rag. Use one coat of primer over surface, let dry.
2. Roll on one coat of white eggshell or satin paint. Let dry. Apply 2 – 3 coats, making sure each coat is dry thoroughly before applying the next.
Once you like the smoothness of the white paint you can proceed to the veining.
To help make veining easier, buy a marble tile. It will help you better visualize what the veins really look like. Veins in marble usually run on a diagonal and they look like they are under water – slightly blurry. I used my tiles as my guides.
3. The veining is created using a feather. I bought my feathers at the craft store, but you may find one out in nature to use.
4. Mix each color of paint with water: 3 parts paint to 1 part water. Dip the tip of the feather into the lighter grey paint and then draw a diagonal line with the tip of the feather moving it on its side and back and forth as you draw the line. You don’t want it to be a solid line, the more variation you can give each vein in color and width – the more realistic it will look.
5. After you make a few veins – hold a spray or misting bottle of water about 12” away from the surface and lightly spray water on top of the veining. This will blur each line, spray a bit more on a few areas to achieve larger sections of blurred grey. If necessary, blot excess water with a sea sponge to fix mistakes or to spread out an area of veining. If you want to spread a the paint bit to soften a vein, go over it with a large soft bristle paint brush. Gently dab it up and down over any area that needs softening. Do not spray too much water or you could raise the white coat of paint – just a light misting is all that is needed.
6. After the water has dried, use the darker color of paint to accent the veins you have already made. Use at least 3 different greys and mix some black or white paint into one of the paint mixes to produce another shade of grey. For a realistic look, vary the shades and width of each vein that you are accenting. Mist with water and let dry.
Remember to continue the veining down and around the sides of the piece you are working on so the top looks like a slab of marble. When you have all the veins and accent veins completed, let dry.
7. If you look at marble carefully you will see it has some splotchy spots in areas. To achieve this, dip a toothbrush into white craft paint. Move your thumb over the loaded brush to create some paint splotches over some of the veins and white areas. To emphasize the effect even more, use the toothbrush as a paint brush, by bouncing the bristles right on the surface to create splotches. Let dry for a few hours.
8. Run very fine sandpaper over the top to ensure that the veins and splotches are not raised in any area. Remove sanding grit with a tack cloth.
Thick and thin veining.
More mottled veining.
The more varied the veins the more realistic it will look.
9. Mix your base white color of paint with water. 1 part paint to 3 parts water. Mix well and then roll one coat on top. Let dry.
10. I used paste wax to protect and add the shine needed to make the faux paint technique look real. I like Fiddes & Sons, the best. Johnson’s (not in photo), and Briwax work just as well. You can also use clear non-yellowing liquid floor wax polish. Pour it on and let dry, buff and then reapply until you get the desired sheen.
11. I applied 3 coats of wax. I let each coat dry to a haze and then I buffed it with an old t-shirt. I repeated the process 3 times to achieve a nice shine that resembles the shine on a real marble surface.
Ed can’t get over how real it looks. The only thing that would make it more real is if it felt real – marble is cold to the touch. Painted wood is not.
Many of you have commented on the cabinet I stripped. I am just smitten with the raw wood look and would do it again without any hesitation. It is a messy, smelly job, but worth it. If a piece does not come out the way you envisioned because the grain in the wood is not pretty or the color is off, you can always paint the piece.
When I was stripping the outside of the cabinet, some of the orange stripper dripped inside the cabinet. Some of you liked the way the drips of stripper looked on the inside– old and distressed. I can see why they liked the look, but I like a cleaner feel, so I sanded the areas where the stripper damaged the paint and repainted the inside of the cabinet.
Two hand-me downs have now become one of my favorite pieces of furniture.