Furniture Makeover: Mixing Up DIY Chalk Paint Recipes & Colors

by Diane Henkler on 09/30/2013

I have been up to a little experimenting again…with DIY chalk paint.

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I have written about many pieces of furniture I have painted using one of three DIY chalk paint recipes – non-sanded grout, Plaster of Paris, and Calcium Carbonate Powder.  Many of you have asked me what is the most durable recipe?

Last week, I combined two of my favorite recipes – Plaster of Paris and Calcium Carbonate Powder in one mix to use on the corner cabinet in my dining room to see if by mixing the two, the finish would be even better – more durable than when either ingredient was used alone.

I liked it –A LOT!   It dried to a very durable finish right away  – no wood tannins bled through and the mixture was super smooth.   I will use the recipe again.

cabinet before

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The cabinet is a hand-me-down. Back in the early 90’s I had an artist paint the trompe l’oeil on the doors. It was in my blue and white kitchen back then and looked quite charming. Fast forward 23 years – time for a makeover.

cabinet during

To create the DIY chalk paint:

 

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I mixed 2 tablespoons of Calcium Carbonate Powder and 2 tablespoons of Plaster of Paris into 2 Tablespoons of water and mixed well. I then added it to 2 cups of latex paint in a satin finish and mixed until smooth.    It created a very smooth consistency.  Not lumpy or grainy at all.

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I made two batches of it because I also wanted to try layering two colors of chalk paint to try to achieve more depth and interest to the finish.

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When I was at the Haven Blog Conference in Atlanta this summer I took a class on how to paint with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint.  One of you – Hi Serena! sat at my table and I loved the colors of chalk paint that she used on her sample board –  I knew it was the look I wanted for my cabinet.

The colors were made by mixing two Annie Sloan colors together to create a brand new color.   Then the colors were layered on top of each other letting the first layer dry, then applying the second color on top.  Once that was dry, it was distressed to expose the under layer of paint, and then waxed.

To paint the cabinet I used Behr Southern Blue S-G-590 in a satin finish as my first coat.  I used Glidden Pacific Coast A1265  for the second or top layer.

I also loved the Annie Sloan’s Soft Wax we used in the class.  I have not purchased it yet as it is a bit too pricey for my budget, but it works beautifully.  For now, I will stick with Fiddes and Sons and Johnson’s.

cabinet after

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I used 160 grit sandpaper to distress the finish and expose the dark indigo blue color underneath.

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I waxed it with Johnsons and buffed it with a soft and well washed t-shirt to bring up a soft shine.

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I like the subtle look of the blue under the turquoise.

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I added new drawer pulls, too.  The pulls on the top left in the above photo are the original.  This Chippendale style of pull is on many of the hand-me-down pieces I inherited. I have spray painted them, added numbered beads to them, and paper napkins to give them an update.

I am tired of Chippendale style pulls and wanted something new – a different shape, so I went shopping online at D.Lawless Hardware and picked out 3 different styles of pulls to try-on to find one that would be just right.

The bin pulls were too big and sat too high on the drawer.  I did not want to have to drill new holes, fill and sand the old ones, so they didn’t make the cut. The glass pulls were invisible.

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I went with the antique finish pulls – they were the right color, dainty, but large enough for the size and proportion of the cabinet and drawer.

Since I love the other two pull styles, I am sure you will be seeing them on future projects.

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The Johnson Brothers gold rimmed china inside the cabinet is also a hand-me-down from my husband’s grandparents.  Who knows, it may feel right at home since many  years ago it was probably displayed just like I have it in the cabinet.

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The cabinet is not huge and gets a little lost next to the big hutch,  so I placed a large white platter that I got at Costco on the top to create some balance. It is propped up on a box and a large plate stand.

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It has lots of texture and detail. It comes down to serve the turkey at Thanksgiving and beef tenderloin at Christmas.

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We use this room only twice a year and only in the evening for candlelight holiday dinners.   The wall color – Ben Moore – Shelburne Buff looks quite cozy in the candlelight.

As with many things on hold in my life as we wait to find out if we are moving or not, it is going to stay, but I am itching to paint it again now that I have changed the colors of the furniture in the room.

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A few of you noticed in my posts last week that the corner cabinet seemed to have changed while I was showing you my dining room table makeover.

I made the white DIY chalk paint for the base of the table using the same recipe I used for the cabinet with Johnsons paste buffed over for protection. The top is a driftwood stained finish.

If you are new here,  and would like to know more about making your own DIY versions of chalk paint, you can find out how to make it in these two posts – Testing DIY Chalk Paint and DIY Chalk Paint Review.

 

The-smoothest-and-most-durable-DIY-chalk-paint-recipe

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{ 131 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Joanne B. September 30, 2013 at 1:52 pm

Hi Diane-
I love the transformation! Nice simple how do also! I like the idea of the darker blue underneath to give dimension. Now- I know this is probably going to sound like I just landed on the planet, but can you please, please, please simply explain to me what all the big deal is about “chalk paint”? The home decor sector is in soooo deep now, I can’t seem to find a simple answer as to what makes chalk paint the greatest thing since sliced bread? Any insight you can give would be appreciated by me, and maybe one other person who just crawled out from under a rock too! And let’s not even get started on what milk paint is…Thanks in advance!

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2 Faye September 30, 2013 at 11:44 pm

The current trend towards chalk paint and milk paints may have come about due to the fact that they do not
require a lot of surface prep–also they can have a crusty(sometimes), worn antique appearance.
I really like the finishes you are doing, Diane, with less expensive materials.

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3 Derrick Lawless September 30, 2013 at 4:35 pm

Wow! What great work! Thanks for the link and everything!

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4 Vikki September 30, 2013 at 8:56 pm

Love your paint job on the corner cabinet. Thanks for the chalk paint recipe. I have a dresser that I got at an auction lots of years ago that I’m itching to paint and I believe I will use this recipe. I may even try the 2 different color technique like you did on the cabinet. Love your blog Diane. You always give me inspiration! Vikki in VA

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5 MK September 30, 2013 at 11:55 pm

I love the color. You surely breathed new life into that piece! I have saved your DIY recipes, and even got the calcium carbonate powder a couple weeks ago. I’ve never tried the grout, but I have painted a few pieces w/the plaster-of-paris recipe–it worked okay–but it felt gritty, I kept finding clumps in my paint no matter how many times I whisked it, & it required sanding between EVERY coat to get the gritty feel off. So I was all excited about trying the calcium carbonate, and now I wonder if I should try your newest creation:) So you really didn’t have any of the clumps or grit from the plaster-of-paris when mixing it w/the calcium carbonate? And just wondering why you decided to try this new mixture–did you find the finished produce from the calcium carbonate recipe to be less durable than desired? I am letting you go before me to perfect this baby, then I’m going to copy what you do:)

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6 Diane Henkler October 1, 2013 at 11:26 am

Hi MK –
I love the Calcium Carbonate Powder all by itself, it is very durable, but does take some time to cure to maximum durability. Out of curiosity I wanted to see how a finish would turn out if I mixed two DIY chalk paint recipes together. I get many reader questions asking what is the best recipe for painting high use pieces, like kitchen tables and outdoor furniture. This would be the mix I would tell them to use. It seemed to cure overnight.

There was no grit at all in the mix. Calcium Carbonate Powder always creates a smooth mix with no graininess, that is why it is my favorite ingredient to use. Depending on the brand of Plaster of Paris – it could have grain or not. I use DAP Plaster of Paris – it is very smooth.

No matter what recipe you use Calcium Carbonate Powder all by itself or mixed with Plaster of Paris – you are going to like the finish. both are excellent. I don’t use the non-sanded grout anymore.

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7 Krista @ the happy housie September 30, 2013 at 11:57 pm

It looks stunning Diane! I make my own with a recipe that is 1 part water to 1 part plaster mixed and add two parts paint- I am super curious about your recipe now – have never tried the CC before and the smaller proportions. Pinning! Thanks for sharing it:)

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8 Diane Henkler October 1, 2013 at 11:08 am

Thanks Krista – I have made many different mixes and used different proportions on different pieces. I have found that you can add more powder than the recipes call for as long as you can keep stirring the mix and it mixes up to a smooth consistency. More powder in the mix means chalkier finish and better adhesion.

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9 Sue October 1, 2013 at 12:55 am

Love the re-do of the cabinet! Beautiful!! I have a question that I didn’t see addressed in the how-to directions. It appears in the photos that you painted on the glass panes as you were painting the woodwork. I don’t see painters tape but maybe it’s there and just not visible? Or is there an easier trick than taping off the glass? I would love to try this technique!

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10 Diane Henkler October 1, 2013 at 11:01 am

Hi Sue – When it is a small area to paint, I think it takes less time to just scrape the paint off the glass with a razor blade then to tape it off. At home improvement stores they sell little razor blades scrapers for $1 that you can easily change the razor blade when it gets dull.

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11 designlit October 1, 2013 at 1:08 am

Creative DIY paint project to do, thumbs up!

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12 Sarah October 1, 2013 at 1:22 am

This is dumb and off subject, but is that Lenox china in the cabinet? I am so so so in love with anything Lenox. I have tons of beautiful Lenox Christmas ornaments and here ad there I pick up a vintage piece from garage sales. I even wear a piece of recycled chipped Lenox around my neck as a necklace. If I ever get married, this is my one demand. A full set of luxe Lenox! XOXO

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13 Diane Henkler October 1, 2013 at 10:57 am

Hi Sarah – It is very old Johnson Brothers china from England.

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14 Sheryll & Critters. October 1, 2013 at 7:06 am

Well if you don’t just come up with the best do over’s ever! It is so beautiful. I love the color and I also like that you do not go overboard on the distressing. I have never and am still having a struggle with most of this distressing done all over now. But you do a perfect job.

Once again, I am so very impressed.

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15 Sheryll & Critters. October 1, 2013 at 7:15 am

Oh Sue brought up a great question that I was also curious about. Did you tape or just scrape the paint off the glass? I used petroleum jelly on the door windows when I Minwax (hate that brand) stained a brand new door for one of Steve’s rental houses and it saved my sanity, cause that Minwax is just awful to get off of anything once dried….. not sure if it will ever come off either.

Also, did you paint the Chevron rug on your newly refinished floor or is it a vinyl rug or any type of real rug?

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16 Diane Henkler October 1, 2013 at 10:52 am

Hi Sheryll -I used a razor blade to remove the paint from the glass. If it is a large window, I use Vaseline, but since it was small – I just scraped. Paint comes off much easier than stain.

The rug I bought at HomeGoods. It is a small area rug that I just move around from room to room to give a pop of color when needed. I don’t want to buy any large area rugs until I know if we are staying in the house or moving.

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17 Beth Coburn October 1, 2013 at 8:19 am

Wow! I love the pop of color this piece gives. As always, well done.

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18 gail October 1, 2013 at 11:56 am

pinned! tweeted! will also share on fb later today. LOVE the look, and I was shocked to see how petite the corner cabinet is next to the hutch! :)

I will have to try your recipe someday soon.

gail

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19 Magali@TheLittleWhiteHouse October 1, 2013 at 2:31 pm

I love that shade of blue!

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20 Barbara B October 1, 2013 at 7:40 pm

What a beautiful cabinet. I love the color! Thank you to Joanne B for asking the question about Chalk Paint. I’m new to this paint too. Now, for the 2nd question that I’m sure you’ve probably answered previously, but I missed it. Where do you get Calcium Carbonate?

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21 MK October 1, 2013 at 11:42 pm

I ordered calcium carbonate powder from Amazon.

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22 Barbara B October 2, 2013 at 2:46 pm

Thank you!

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23 Debbie October 1, 2013 at 8:51 pm

I love, love, love that cabinet! That blue is awesome and exactly my taste!Great directions and explanations for what you did, also

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24 Pam October 3, 2013 at 10:18 pm

Hi!
Could you tell me the name of the white paint you used along with the P of P and CCPowder? Was it one or two different colors and one or two coats? Both the table and corner cabinet look beautiful.

Thanks,

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25 Diane Henkler October 3, 2013 at 10:23 pm

Thanks Pam – I used Glidden Premium White base in a semigloss finish right off the store shelf. 2 coats of the same color.

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26 Jeanette October 4, 2013 at 11:49 am

I love the outcome and have a Goodwill dresser in my basement awaiting a transformation! Now I know the direction that I’m going to take. Can I please ask for a quick clarification on the paint sheen. Here you noted a semigloss finish but above in the post there are references to latex paint in a satin finish. Would the sheen even matter too much since it’s waxed/buffed in the end? Thanks!!

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27 Diane Henkler November 21, 2013 at 10:20 pm

Jeanette – you can use any sheen of latex paint. They will all become flat once you add the chalk paint component – CCP or PoPlaster.

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28 S.M. Isham October 5, 2013 at 8:00 pm

Calcium Carbonate is also known as Bone Meal. In my area it can be found cheapest at the vitamin store

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29 Diane Henkler October 10, 2013 at 1:24 pm

Thanks for sharing the info on Bone Meal. It will help many readers out who are having a hard time finding it.

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30 annel October 9, 2013 at 10:17 am

Thanks SOOO much for the best (in your search for the DIY) chalk paint powders, I do alot of repurposed furniture make overs and can not afford AS & CC paints and waxes, so this will be a great dollar saver! Thanks agian Diane! ;-)

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31 Laura October 10, 2013 at 2:54 pm

Hi, Diane! I am a fan of your blog, and have been perusing it for quite some time. I am getting ready to paint my first piece of furniture using chalk paint, and really appreciate all the testing you’ve done, and especially this latest recipe. I blogged about it, and put a link back to this page. Thanks so much!
Laura

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32 Sharon jackson October 10, 2013 at 8:15 pm

Love your ideas and advice on the chalk paint recipes. I have an old bed that was given to me that I use in our guestroom. I cannot wait to try this on it! A couple of questions please. You mentioned you don’t like Valspar paint? Which kinds do you recommend also what type brushes did you use? I saw a video where the wax brush was over $40. I don’t have that in my budget for just a brush. Any advice? Love your site!

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33 Diane Henkler October 11, 2013 at 8:54 am

Hi Sharon – The only reason I don’t like to use Valspar paint is that is has a primer in it that sometimes can bind up a DIY Chalkstyle Paint mix when using non sanded grout or Plaster of Paris. I have never had a problem when I use Glidden Premium paint in a satin finish. Any paint without a primer in it will work as well as any finish, but I like the way the satin finish mixes up. I do not use brushes, I used well worn and washed T-shirts. I cut them up into pieces and use them to apply and buff the wax.

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34 Darla October 12, 2013 at 10:19 pm

I am looking for a high gloss finish. I was wondering if you have ever tried making chalk paint with semi gloss paint.

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35 Diane Henkler October 13, 2013 at 10:42 pm

Hi Darla – The finish of the paint you use to make DIY chalk paint does not matter. Once you add the Plaster of Paris or the Calcium Carbonate powder the paint will become flat. The way to achieve a high gloss shine over chalk paint is to use wax. Fiddes and Sons and Annie Sloan buff up to a high shine right away. Johnson’s needs a few coats and a bit more buffing to bring up the shine, but it can become super shiny. The other way is to use Minwax Polycrylic in a gloss finish after the paint is dry. Wax or poly will protect the painted surface.

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36 Carrie October 13, 2013 at 5:26 pm

Hi Diane,
Your chalk paint projects are so inspiring! I am just a beginner with repurposing/painting furniture. I have young kids and I have an oak dining table I want to repaint. I am thinking about using your chalk paint recipe but I just want to make sure I understand what to do :) After I have painted my piece with chalk paint and it has dried, is using wax the best way to seal it? Or do I just use wax if I want that rustic finish? What’s the best way to seal my piece but is safe since my piece is a dining table?

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37 Lorraine October 13, 2013 at 8:53 pm

Hi Diane, I am so so happy I found your website. I have been researching chalk painting and with so many recipes and opinions I was losing my mind. You are the ONLY person I have found who really and truly tested and tried every recipe and paint and posted all of the information. I recently purchased a vanity I spent ten years searching for and want to make sure I refinish it well, and finding your site will surely help me accomplish that task. I noticed in this post that you did not tape up your glass. is that because the paint washes away easily until it’s waxed? This cabinet like all your pieces is gorgeous. Thanks for posting such amazing information. Wish me luck.

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38 Diane Henkler October 13, 2013 at 10:36 pm

Hi Lorraine – I didn’t tape up the glass for time reasons. Sometimes, especially when the glass has lots of trim around it, it is quicker to remove the paint on the glass with a razor blade scraper. The paint will not wash away. The only way to remove it once it is dried is to sand it off or use stripper. If you have the time, you should create a sample board to see how the paint and wax looks before doing your vanity. That way you can be sure the color and process works for the look you are trying to achieve.

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39 edythe October 14, 2013 at 8:39 pm

I love the idea of chalk paint, and really want to do it on one of my kitchen walls. I also want to be able to write on it with chalk. Do I just use the calcium carb. recipe without waxing? Or because I am using it on a sheet rock wall that had wallpaper on it should I do it completely do it differently? Thanks Edythe

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40 Diane Henkler October 15, 2013 at 12:22 pm

Hi Edythe – If you want to use it as a chalkboard, you can buy chalk(board) paint in many different colors. Lowes makes it and so do a few other companies. If you want to create your own color, then yes, just use the Calcium Carbonate recipe and then do not wax. I would put 1 more tablespoon of the CCPowder into the mix, just to make sure it will be chalky enough to write on.

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41 Susan Mathison October 16, 2013 at 6:07 am

Just as an FYI- I did a little research on Bone Meal vs. Calcium Carbonate. Bone Meal has a much higher lead content than Calcium Carbonate, which may not be beneficial to your health!

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42 Diane Henkler October 17, 2013 at 9:32 am

Good to know Susan – thanks for doing the research :)

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43 soledad October 16, 2013 at 11:59 am

Hi diane, I prepared the recipe eith plaster of paris and let the paint cure for 3 days and can’t pass the nail test what do you think is the problem???

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44 Diane Henkler October 17, 2013 at 9:30 am

Hi Soledad – Three things could be happening. #1. It may need to cure longer depending on how thick the coats of paint were applied. #2. There may not have been enough P o Paris added to the paint. #3. The surface may need to be roughed up more with sandpaper if the original finish was glossy.

What I would do is wait a few more days, but while you wait – wax one small section and buff it to the shine you want. Let is sit for a few more days and then do the scratch test again – on the waxed area and un-waxed area to see if the paint still scratches off. Chalk paint can take a few weeks to cure – temps in room, brand of paint,etc. If it stills comes off. I would sand over the surface with 60 grit sandpaper to really rough it up. You can then repaint over it. If the paint layer is thin – it should sand down evenly and not leave any ridges of old paint behind. If the coat of paint is thicker, you may have to sand harder to remove any ridges of paint – so the finish is roughed up, but even and smooth so the new coat of paint will look smooth. You don’t have to remove all the paint – just get the spots that are not sticking removed.

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45 jenny schuermann October 19, 2013 at 6:27 pm

hi, diane – love your blog & am an avid ASCP user, but like the thought of a less expensive alternative. In checking out calcium carbonate, I found the following on the Home Depot website: “Calcitic lime is pure calcium carbonate and is the cheapest form of lime.” This is the “lime” fertilizer (a powder) @ Home Depot. Do you know if this is any different than the calcium carbonate one can purchase on Amazon?

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46 Diane Henkler October 19, 2013 at 9:07 pm

Hi Jenny – I have never used anything but the Now Brand that I buy in the health food store. I think it should work fine as long as it is a super fine powder. The NOW brand is so nice to use because it mixes up into a very smooth – with no lumps mixture. I looked at lime once, but it was too sandy and didn’t mix into the paint. If it feels like flour, it will be fine to use.

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47 Josie October 21, 2013 at 6:00 pm

Hi, I love your chalk paint tutorials! Thanks so much for the info!
Based on your experiences, would you recommend this chalk paint mixture as a good option to paint kitchen cabinets/counters? Thanks!

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48 Diane Henkler October 22, 2013 at 8:20 am

Hi Josie – I am not sure I would paint kitchen counter tops with chalk paint, but the cabinets – yes. It would work nicely on cabinets. As for the counter tops, I am not sure the paint would stand up to repeated water, cutting, heat, cold, and the abuse counter tops receive. It may work just fine on counters, but I will have to experiment on counters before I would tell anyone to do it. I would use the Calcium Carbonate Powder mixed with the Plaster of Paris recipe. It is super durable as soon as it dries. I see more experimenting in my future :)

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49 Josie October 22, 2013 at 11:16 pm

Ok thanks for the opinion. You don’t think I could use a stronger more durable sealer (I’m very ignorant about this sort of stuff)?

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50 Lisa October 21, 2013 at 6:04 pm

I used the recipe with the Plaster of Paris and a sample pot of Behr paint. I let it cure for a week before sanding, but had problems with it peeling up in strips as I got down to the wood. I was able to repaint and distressed it by carefully sanding. It would have peeled again if I hadn’t been careful. It turned out beautiful.

Should I have used a “nail test”? What is that?

I am planning to paint a large cabinet. What is the best way to apply the paint for a smooth surface? Roller, paint brush?

And one more question. My daughter wants to paint her kitchen cabinets. Will the Plaster of Paris/CC recipe work well for that? Does the wax hold up in this application? Would the cabinets need to be re-waxed occasionally?

Thank you for all of your help! Your posts and tests have been the most help to me of anything I’ve been able to find!!

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51 Diane Henkler October 22, 2013 at 8:11 am

Hi Lisa –
If your paint came up in strips – the surface could use more sanding or cleaning. Something was acting like a buffer. It is usually dirt and or a greasy spot.

The nail test is what you do to test the surface after it has had time to cure for a few days. You simply try to scratch the surface with your fingernail. If the paint scratches off, let it cure longer and try again. If it scratches off after a few weeks, then the mix could not have been mixed well or it could use more of the chalk paint component – Plaster etc. Another tablespoon or two can be added as long as the mixture stays smooth.

I have never used a roller, always a brush – if the mixture is smooth then it will go on very smooth. You can use a foam roller though, it should work just fine.

Many use chalk paint for their kitchen cabinets. I love the mix of CCP and PoP and will use it all the time now. It passed the scratch test on the first day :) It adheres well. Yes you would need to reapply wax every so often to keep the protection up. It could be months, a year but they will need re-waxing at some point.

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52 Joani October 25, 2013 at 2:50 am

Thank you for taking so much time experimenting with the chalk paint recipes and for sharing the results do freely with so many. You wrote that using paint-and-primer-in-one latex paints produced bad results with sanded grout. But do you have any experience using the combination paint with the calcium powder/plaster mix? If so, what results did those tests produce? Can I use Behr Premium Plus combination paint w the. Recipes? Thanks so much. Joani

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53 Diane Henkler October 25, 2013 at 2:20 pm

Hi Joani – I recently posted about a corner hutch in my dining room that I used a mix of Calcium Carbonate and Plaster of Paris. I loved the results. You can see that post here: http://inmyownstyle.com/2013/09/furniture-makeover-mixing-diy-chalk-paint-recipes-colors.html

I used Behr Premimun Plus paint for a stool I painted using Plaster and it mixed up fine. I only made a small amount though – 1 cup. It will bind up with the non-sanded grout. I don’t use the grout anymore. If you already have the paint, make a small mix up to see if it turns to sludge. If it does then it won’t work. I use Glidden premium paint in a satin finish the most and always get great results with PoP and/or CCpowder.

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54 Dianne VM October 26, 2013 at 12:38 pm

hi from di…..was about to buy AS Chalk Paint and found your site and info….excited to try your recipe for my kitchen cabs. but was told to use a varathane type finish, from AS supply store. Fear now it will yellow and confused with too many options for most durable finish. Do u recommend the acrylic type top coat rather than AS varathane or other brand name varathane??? I am a first timer for any or all! Luv your site and excited to find it and your chalk paint recipe 4 sure, since cost of AS Chalk Paint is not in my budget and achieving a expresso brown I like s worrisome! Thanx thanx thanx for your info!!!

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55 Diane Henkler October 27, 2013 at 12:25 pm

Hi Dianne – I always use wax to protect the pieces I have painted. I love how it brings out the patina, but if you want a poly finish, you can use a water-based polyurethane product like Minwax Polycrylic. It is what many use to protect the painted finish on furniture and it will not yellow. It comes in a few finishes – glossy and satin. Since painting your kitchen cabinets is a big job, get a scrap piece of lumber and try your technique out on it first, then when you like what you see – do it on the cabinets.

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56 sgrice January 27, 2014 at 12:55 pm

Hi.. I have a quick question Im repainting my kitchen table and chairs with DIY chalk paint my first time. Do I need to put a protective topcoat BEFORE I glaze to give it a worn look on chairs and legs of the table?

57 Anita Barber October 30, 2013 at 2:32 pm

Where did you get calcium carbonate?

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58 Diane Henkler October 30, 2013 at 11:00 pm

Hi Anita – I buy Calcium Carbonate Powder at the health food store. You can also buy it on Amazon. I use the Now brand. In the store it runs around $6 a bottle. I think on amazon it is around $9. I have never found Lime that is smooth enough. The only types I have found are too gritty.

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59 Anita Barber October 30, 2013 at 2:33 pm

Is it the same thing as lime ?

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60 Linda Hopkins October 30, 2013 at 3:32 pm

I think your blog is one of the best out there. You are so thorough and give such great directions and tips. No guessing on your site! Thank you so much for your wonderful posts and your comments. I’m looking forward to painting some furniture that needs some TLC and I just can’t afford the ASCP. Thanks again!

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61 Diane Henkler October 30, 2013 at 10:58 pm

Thanks Linda – I truly appreciate you taking the time to tell me XO I do love writing and sharing what I know. I always try to put myself in the readers shoes and cover the details to help make sure if they do the project , they will know what to do, but also what not to do. :)

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62 Diana M. October 31, 2013 at 10:53 pm

Diane,

I love this blog. I have painted several pieces with Annie Sloan but I started painting a chair for my screened in porch and want a black finish and the graphite is grey. I went o Home Depot and bought basic black satin paint and P of P but I can not find the calcium carbonate. I would like to purchase it locally so I can paint this weekend. Can you provide me the name of the store wher you bought the CC. One last question. I painted a chair and started waxing it, can I use this paint and just paint over the wax or do you think I should sand those areas? Thanks.

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63 Diane Henkler November 1, 2013 at 9:37 am

Hi Diana -

You can buy Calcium Carbonate powder at the health food store. I buy the Now Brand. It has an orange and purple label on a white bottle. Annie Sloan says you can paint over waxed areas, but I always go over the area with a sanding block first. It only takes a few minutes and can’t hurt, plus it will only give you added adhesion for the long run.

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64 Michelle November 6, 2013 at 1:11 am

I have painted a few pieces with the Calcium Carbonate recipe, thanks so much for this. Mine has turned out very chalky, it mixed well but after it dries it feels very gritty.

I felt the pieces my daughter has done with the Annie Sloan and it is smooth. I wonder if I did something wrong when I mixed it or if it was the paint I used. I just used a flat interior, acrylic wall paint.

Maybe I should try a different type of paint to mix it with.

The paint went on well enough it is just a bit too gritty to touch after. I was thinking of diluting the mix with some more paint.

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65 Diane Henkler November 6, 2013 at 8:26 pm

Hi Michelle – What brand of Calcium Carbonate powder did you use? I have only used the NOW brand (health food store) and it always mixes up super smooth. It could be the brand you used is not as fine. 2 things you can try. Lightly sand over the surface with fine sandpaper to smooth out the grittiness. You could also mix the powder in a few tablespoons of warm water to dissolve the powder first, then add to the paint and mix it well. I use Glidden Premimum paint in a satin finish. It has no primer in it. It always mixes up well. I recently used True Value latex interior paint in satin. It came out great. From experience, the only paint not to use are ones that are paint-and-primer-in-one formulas.

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66 Michelle November 10, 2013 at 11:53 pm

Thanks I think when I made it up I used cold water to mix it to a paste then slowly added the paint. The Calcium Bicarbonate I ordered through a pet supply place in a 5 kg bag (should last a while lol).

I will mix up a small amount after I use this 2 ltrs up and give it a go. I just gave it a light sand it turned out lovely but would like to skip this step obviously.

It goes on well other than a little bit gritty after a few coats so I am still happy with it anyway so thanks so much for the recipe. For the 2 ltrs I made it cost me $16 compared to $120 for 2 ltrs (2 quarts) of Annie Sloan.

We don’t have latex paint here but as close as it gets is the acrylic paint which is the regular water based wall paint, not the tubes you do art projects with. I might try a satin next time too rather than the flat matt, either way fun with experimenting.

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67 Paige Wells November 9, 2013 at 8:02 am

Thanks for sharing your ideas. You are so talented and amazing. I think we would be really good friends if I actually knew you :) Gonna get started on an old desk today!

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68 Diane Henkler November 10, 2013 at 10:21 pm

HI Paige – Maybe someday we will get the chance to meet. Love when I find kindred spirits :) Happy Painting XO

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69 Bianca December 10, 2013 at 11:51 am

hi Diane,

love what you do, but still don’t get it…
i understand how to make the mix, but do you add this mixx into normal colored paint???
this is what i understood in the story about the cabinet with the 2 colored layers…
please i hope for an answer…

greetings from Holland
Bianca van Rijsselt

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70 Diane Henkler December 10, 2013 at 2:13 pm

HI Bianca -

Once you make the mix, you add it in to water-based latex paint. (You can use any finish latex – Flat, satin, semi-gloss- since the mixture will flatten it anyway) Mix it well. Then you paint with it. I made mixtures in two colors, so that when I sanded the top color, the bottom color would show up to add more interest to the piece. You can simply just use one – no need to do two unless you like the two color look. I hope this helps. Do you have latex paint in Holland?

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71 Bianca December 10, 2013 at 2:44 pm

huh??? but the behr paint is not latex…
i looked it up on google, as we in our country have different marks of paint…
and yes we have latex in holland hahaha…
we paint our walls with it…
anyway, i mixed the carbonate mix into normal furniture colored paint…
it gives a real chalk look untill now…
wonder how it lookes tomorrow hahaha…
thanks for comment…
let you know what happend…

greetings Bianca

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72 Diane Henkler December 10, 2013 at 3:28 pm

I know some readers in Europe do not have access to latex paint. Behr paint is latex. I was not sure if you did. When you apply the soft wax over the dried chalk paint, the patina will come out in the finish.

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73 Jennifer Ditter December 29, 2013 at 11:56 am

Wow, I love this!! Thanks. I’m going to try my first piece using your recipe. I can’t get the top coat Glidden Pacific so I’m not sure what other color would be comparable? Plus, I could only find the Bone Meal for $11, is that the same? :-)

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74 Diane Henkler December 30, 2013 at 12:03 pm

Hi Jennifer -

I don’t think Calcium Carbonate and Bone Meal are the exact same. Bone Meal has Calcium Carbonate in it as well as some other things. Calcium Carbonate is 100% Calcium Carbonate. Bone Meal may work, but I have never used it so I can’t be sure if it will work or not. To match up the Glidden color I used. You can use any brand of paint as long as it is not have a primer in it or is a Primer and Paint Formula in 1. AS far as the Pacific Coast #A1265 Glidden Color – check out Sherwin Williams Slick Blue SW 6949 or Benjamin Moore Fairy Tale Blue 2055-50

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75 Laura Adams December 30, 2013 at 10:00 pm

Ok… what am I doing wrong? You inspired me to give chalk paint a try, so I built a Farmhouse bed from Anna White’s plans, and mixed up the latest formula: 2 T. calcium carbonate (which I found at Home Depot, 5-lbs./$10), 2 T. Plaster of Paris, & 2 T. water, mixed well until very smooth, then stirred in 2 c. latex flat paint (Glidden, mixed at Home Depot in Martha Stewart Bedford Gray for about $18/gallon). It went on smooth as silk, & dried quickly, but I had to put the painting on the back burner for a few days, & when I came back to it, the plaster had settled to the bottom of the can & hardened. I had to strain the paint to get out all the hard little bits – there was no way they were ever going to mix in again. Have you experienced this? Think I’ll skip the plaster, or mix very small batches.

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76 Diane Henkler December 31, 2013 at 3:46 pm

Hi Laura -

I have not had Plaster of Paris or CCPowder clump up, only the non-sanded grout. I have only used the NOW brand of Calcium Carbonate and the DAP brand of Plaster of Paris. They may have different percentages of ingredients in them and that could have been why it clumped up. The largest mixtures I have made are using a quart of paint and if I cover the unused portion in an airtight container – it stays smooth. I know it must be frustrating, but don’t give up. As you stated, I think I would try making smaller batches and use only one or the other of the Plaster or CCP to see which one you like best. I have had equal success with both, but the CCP that I use does whip up into a smoother consistency.

On another note – I am impressed with your skills to build one of Ana White’s pieces of furniture – you are a DIY rock star!

Happy New Year!

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77 Diane Steffen December 31, 2013 at 12:36 am

Diane, have you ever used a dark color such as indigo blue under a soft white? I was wondering if the white covers the darker color adequately and if so how does it look after sanding? Also, just to let you know, Hi-Yield makes a Horticultural Lime that is used mostly for lawns and gardens to “sweeten the soil”. But the bag also gives directions for making whitewash. So don’t give up on using lime in your paint. I think you have a future in chalk paint chemistry.

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78 Diane Henkler December 31, 2013 at 2:51 pm

Hi Diane – Thanks so much for the info on the Horticultural lime. I will look into it more since it can be purchased in large quantities for a few dollars. I wish my Chemistry teacher from high school, Mr. Lyman could see your comment :)

As far as using a dark color under white, I have never done it myself, but I think it would look great – you would see the color all around the edges of the sanded areas. You would probably need two coats of white to cover the base color. If you are unsure, try it on a scrap piece of wood to see if you like it before painting your actual piece of furniture or item.
Happy 2014!

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79 Marilo January 4, 2014 at 6:57 am

Hello Diane! I wish to you and your readers a happy 2014!
I have a question regarding your chalk recipe: if i use this to paint a furniture, i have to sand it before?

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80 Diane Henkler January 4, 2014 at 10:00 pm

Hi Marilo –
I always sand before I paint anything. I look at it this way – it never hurts to sand. You do not have to remove the finish or go down to the bare wood or use a big daddy electric sander. All that is needed is a good going over the surface. I use a hand sanding block and 60-100 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface a bit. Depending on the size of the piece – it will take 10 minutes or less.

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81 Laura Adams January 5, 2014 at 4:57 pm

I should let your readers know that the calcium carbonate (aka Chalk) I found at Home Depot is line marking chalk used to saturate plumb lines so that you can snap a straight line when building something. It comes in different colors, & the manufacturer’s website says it is 99.99.9% calcium carbonate, with a tiny bit of naturally occurring silica (sand). I had to order the white color from their website, with free shipping when I picked it up at the store. The brand is Irwin Strait-Line. There is a warning, as there should be with ANY brand of calcium carbonate, stating that prolonged exposure to chalk dust could cause lung cancer, so use caution when mixing your paints, girlfriends.

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82 Diane Henkler January 6, 2014 at 11:13 pm

Hi Laura – Thanks for the info – who knew?- Plumb line chalk. I will check it out. The kind I have used is sold at the health food store. It is food grade and I don’t think it is toxic since it is digestible and used for bone health.

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83 Fiona January 7, 2014 at 12:39 pm

Thanks so much for this post! I love it! I am totally inspired to do some painting using your recipe. Can I ask you: I want to paint my toddlers bedroom furniture. It is from ikea and it is very dark brown, almost black. I am guessing it will take several coats. I would like to achieve a solid contemporary finish, not antiqued at all. Do you think its possible to achieve this finish with chalk paint? Also how long do you think I need to wait for the furniture to cure before they get used? (Annie Sloan website that says 4-6 weeks!! Eeek!). I would greatly appreciate your input!! If this is a bad idea entirely can you please let mean know? Thanks!!

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84 Diane Henkler January 7, 2014 at 5:52 pm

Hi Again Fiona – Most paint needs to cure and depending on the temp and humidity in the room, it may take up to a few weeks. You can use the pieces, but if they are not cured completely you may damaged the smoothness of the finish. For a contemporary finish -Chalk paint looks great – it does not have to be sanded or aged. You would need to use Poly or Wax over it to give the piece protection and shine. If not the finish would be very flat. I don’t think that is the look you are going for and you will have to add more wax over time if the pieces get a lot of wear. You may be better off just using regular acrylic latex enamel in semi or high gloss. You would need to use a gripping primer on it first if it has a laminate finish. If it is wood, you would need to use a stain blocking primer first, then paint.

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85 Fiona January 7, 2014 at 12:42 pm

Another quick question: do you have any recommendations for best, nontoxic latex paint ? Since I am painting my sons furniture I’m looking for something with little to no VOCs. Thanks!!

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86 Diane Henkler January 7, 2014 at 5:41 pm

Hi Fiona – There is a new chalk paint company out that claims to have no VOC’s. It is called Country Chic Paint. They have a website. As far as a latex to make your own DIY chalk paint – I have not used anything besides the big brand names of paint. I would do a Google search to find some brands that have little or no VOC’s and then test them out to see how well they adhere and cover.

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87 Fiona January 7, 2014 at 2:41 pm

One more question – (*sorry!*) i need to find a wax that is nontoxic (or as natural as possible) and will have a clear finish so it won’t turn my furniture yellow. Your recommendation is greatly appreciated!!

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88 Diane Henkler January 7, 2014 at 5:36 pm

Hi Fiona – I have only used Fiddes and Sons, Ce Ce Caldwell, Annie Sloan, and Johnsons waxes. I haven’t used any non-toxic brands yet to recommend. If you do a Google search for “Non toxic paste wax” I am sure a few will show up in the the search results. Just make sure the wax is soft. A hard wax is not the same.

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89 Rosanne January 13, 2014 at 7:36 pm

Hi Fiona!

If you are looking for a non-toxic wax, have a look at our natural wax… It contains all natural ingredients (beeswax, plant waxes and plant oils) and is absolutely safe. There’s absolutely no chemicals or mineral oils in our wax. It will also not discolor your furniture! Feel free to email me at hello@countrychicpaint.com if you have any questions at all!

~ Rosanne

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90 julia gump smyserds January 24, 2014 at 9:31 am

I have been painting old furniture for years…I am 86 yrs and am still excited creating the painted look………but chalk painting is a new wrinkle for me and since I have all the necessary items on hand to make my chalk paint I will start within the hour …right after I ha ve my coffee……….thanks a million for such easy directions………..wish I lived next door to you to share our creations…….God Bless….Julia

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91 April April 16, 2014 at 11:29 am

86 years young and still painting furniture! I think you are my new hero!!!

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92 Kaitlyn January 26, 2014 at 11:55 am

I am in love with the corner cabinet color! Amazing job! You said that you mixed up two batches of paint and I wanted to know if that meant I only needed one cup of paint per batch or do I need two cups for each batch?

Thank you thank you!

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93 Diane Henkler January 28, 2014 at 12:20 pm

Hi Kaitlyn -
How much paint you mix up depends on how big the piece is you are painting. I made up a 2 cup mixture for each color of paint. So I made 4 cups total. It does go a long way. One coat of each color. If you have a larger piece you may want to make up more.

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94 Jan January 30, 2014 at 2:55 am

Have you tried using premixed Plaster used to repair plaster walls to make chalk paint? I picked some up at Walleworld in the paint dept. and thought I might give it a try. It comes in small pots, premixed. Since it is already is a wet pastey consistency, I am curious….
I have used Annie Sloan, but as you said, it is very pricey. I need to do several more large pieces so I am looking for something easier on the budget.
Let me know what your thoughts are!

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95 Diane Henkler January 30, 2014 at 1:20 pm

HI Jan -

You can make chalk paint using many different ingredients – all of them work, some might make up grittier or different consistency mixtures, but they all add the chalk base that gives the latex paint the great adhesion power and flat look. I have not used the pre-mixed pots of Plaster, but think it would work fine as long as you get the paint mixed in evenly. You may have to test out the proportions of it to paint, but other than that, I think it could be a good thing. Let me know how it worked.

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96 Laura | Zurleys Living Room Furniture February 9, 2014 at 5:40 am

I love this – I’ve never really heard of chalk paint before – it’s weird you can actually see the chalkiness in it! I really want to try it out on a sideboard I’ve got.

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97 Lynda Clarke February 12, 2014 at 8:59 am

Hello Diane, Thank you so much all the research you’ve done on chalk paint. I love the look, and am in the process of redecorating my condo. I’ve tried your newest recipe, the Calcium Carbonate and Plaster of Paris, and it works like a dream. So now I can put the money I’ve saved on chalk paint towards buying a new granite counter top! And for any readers who are doing extensive research like I did, I can honestly say the information from Diane is invaluable and will save you a lot of time and trouble. Thanks again, Diane!

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98 Diane Henkler February 12, 2014 at 6:33 pm

Thanks Lynda XO This is so nice to hear. When I first used DIY chalk paint, I was sold. It truly changed the way I paint furniture. I have painted furniture for years for myself as well as selling it. I never could get the patina I desired with latex alone and poly. After that first piece I used it on, I wanted to know as much as I could about making it. I will continue to post about it and may even do a video or two so readers can actually see my process firsthand.

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99 Diana M. February 12, 2014 at 9:08 am

Just as an FYI. I have had great experience with the chalk paint recipe but I did do a table in black and I did not sand the table and the paint is peeling off. It is a table on my screened porch. I am going to repaint it in the spring but the chairs I painted in black did great.

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100 Diane Henkler February 12, 2014 at 6:26 pm

Hi Diana – I always sand every piece, not to the bare wood, but just to rough the surface up. I went to an Annie Sloan session at a blog conference and we learned that you don’t have to sand, but it is worth the 5 – 10 minutes it will take. I am not sure how long ago you painted the table before it got cold. If it was not cured enough, the cold air could be why it is peeling.

I have a question for you, I have not made black chalk paint yet and many ask me if by adding the grout, plaster, or CCpowder if the color of the black lightens? Did your black paint stay the same blackness? Thanks

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101 jenny February 22, 2014 at 10:40 am

hi, ive tired the chalk paint recipe with the calcium carbonate and plaster of paris together in the recipe you gave., it came out fabulous! I added a small artist tube of blue acrylic paint to add colour, went on brilliantly, but now its drying ive noticed a lot of patchy, white coming through? I mixed it well and it went on with great coverage, why do you think this has happened? do you think I made a mistake using the artist paint for colour? I live in the uk

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102 brandia February 25, 2014 at 2:08 pm

Can you use acrylic paint at all? I have a TON of that!

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103 Diane Henkler February 25, 2014 at 3:11 pm

Hi Brandia – I have had mixed results with acrylic craft type paints when using Plaster of Paris and Non Sanded Grout. I would only make it up in small batches if using one of these, so that if it does turn to sludge, you are not wasting good paint. If you mix it with just Calcium Carbonate Powder it should be fine.

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104 Gillie March 4, 2014 at 1:41 pm

Hi Up till yesterday I had never heard of chalk paint. I inherited a truely awful small chunky ( orange pine ) nest of tables. I am in process of downsizing so thought they would be useful and was looking for ideas to update them. Today I made chalk paint from baby’s talcum powder. I cannot tell you how pleased I am with the way they have turned out. All 3 tables had 2 coats of paint and I waxed with clear wax. The only outlay I made was the wax. Tomorrow will wax again maybe with dark. I am from the UK but live in Spain now. Than you for your excellent blog.

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105 Maribel March 13, 2014 at 7:56 pm

Hi Diane,

You are amazing! and I love how your dinning room looks. I’m littler bit curious if you have any experience with Americana Décor Chalk that we can buy in Home Depot. Before read all your DIY Chalk Paint test, I was tenting to use Americana. Now I think I’m going to DIY my chalk paint :)

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106 Diane Henkler March 13, 2014 at 7:59 pm

Hi Maribel – I have not used it. Does it come in a range of colors, or can you get it mixed to any color?

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107 Grace March 22, 2014 at 2:55 pm

Hi Diane.
Do you use the same formula for all of the pieces you are painting? I have never painted furniture before.. I have so many pieces in my three (yes three) garages for future projects. Well the time has come for the future projects. I was going to hire someone to paint and repair for me but the cost was way above what I imagined it to be. So again my question do I use the same formula for all pieces but only change the color I want to paint the item?

Thank you.

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108 Diane Henkler March 22, 2014 at 7:25 pm

Hi Grace-

I have experimented with many variations and have written about each, but my go to now for painting furniture is making chalk paint using the Calcium Carbonate Power recipe and adding 1 Tablespoon of Plaster of Paris to the mix. It creates and extremely durable finish. If you want to be able to easily age and distress a lot of the finish- leave out the Plaster of Paris. It makes the paint not as easy to distress. I like Fiddes and Sons wax in clear the best. I just did the cabinet doors in my powder room and used Polycrylic instead of wax since I was not going to distress the finish. I am very happy with how they turned out. You have to try a few different ways and methods to find the one that you like the best.

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109 Donna March 22, 2014 at 10:09 pm

Thanks for all your help. I’m looking at painting a small desk. If I mix the 2 cups paint do I use 2 tablespoons each cc, p of p and water or only 1 tablespoons plaster of Paris, and 2 of cc and water?

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110 Diane Henkler March 23, 2014 at 11:21 am

Hi Donna -

If you want a very distressed finish use only 1 T of PoP in the mix. I would use 2T of CCP and 1T of PoP and a little bit of water in 2 cups of paint. If you want a super durable finish and are only going to distress the edges a bit, then add 2 T’s of each into 2 cups of paint and a little bit of water.

Once you make a few batches, you will see that your measurements do not have to be the same for each mix. As long as you have at least 2 Tablespoons of a “make your own chalk paint ingredient” in the latex paint, it will work. Don’t use a paint and primer in one formula or an acrylic paint. They tend to turn into sludge soon after mixing. Mix the powder into water first, let it dissolve, then mix into the paint.

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111 Donna March 28, 2014 at 6:01 pm

Thanks Diane. I’m doing a desk about the size of the one you did for your youngest daughter. Would the 2 cups paint plus the 2 tablespoons each of PoP and Calcium Carbonate powder and water be enough mix to do 2 coats on the desk or should I mix more paint? I’m new at chalk painting but can’t wait to give it a try. Thanks for your help.

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112 Diane Henkler March 28, 2014 at 6:19 pm

Hi Donna – I would make more – 4 cups should do 2 coats and then any touch ups.

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113 Donna March 28, 2014 at 10:03 pm

Thanks. That’s what I’ll do.

114 Donna April 1, 2014 at 11:49 am

If I use 4 cups paint do I still use 2 T of the PoP and CCP? Mix? Getting ready to paint. Yeah.

115 Sam March 24, 2014 at 5:02 pm

I used your recipe to make chalk paint to refinish a cabinet. I used 3 layers of different colored paints with the top a dark plum. I plan on sanding to distress it before I wax. When I lightly sanded the first coat of the dark plum, I noticed small white specks. I thought I had mixed the POP (DAP) and CC (Now) with water pretty well before mixing into the paint. There were no clumps. The paint was Valspar–the brand you don’t recommend. I had already painted the piece before I realized the brand was a bad choice. Is there any way to save this? Maybe the spots will go away after I wax? Any suggestion is appreciated.

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116 Diane Henkler March 25, 2014 at 9:32 am

Hi Sam -

Getting white specks happened to me when I mixed my first batch of chalk paint. I painted a stool pink. It had specks when I sanded. Since the specks are un-dissolved powder, it can be dissolved as you sand depending on how big each speck is. Take a wet/damp rag and as a speck appears asa you sand, dab it with the cloth – smush it around a little until it goes away. Bigger specks are easy to dissolve. The Valspar paint with the primer could be making the Plaster of Paris not mix in well. It is the Plaster not the CCP that has not dissolved. The next time you mix it. Try mixing the PoP alone with warm water and really stir it until smooth. Add more water if necessary, then add it to the CCP if you are using both to make one durable paint. If using Calcium Carbonate Power and water alone and no PoP, you will not get any specks. If you want the super durable finish that you get by adding the PoP, you can use less of it in your mixes.

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117 Nancy March 27, 2014 at 1:46 pm

Hi,

I wonder if premixed drywall compound (aka “mud” or joint compound) would work as well. Does anyone know?

Thanks,

Nancy

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118 Tracy M March 28, 2014 at 4:27 pm

Beautiful project and very inspiring. You were also very informative. I feel a lot more comfortable about tackling those projects now. Thanks

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119 Michele April 3, 2014 at 2:47 am

Thank you for such wonderful information! I love the Glidden color on the cabinet….very pretty.

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120 Kat April 6, 2014 at 12:40 pm

So happy to have discovered your great site!
I have a few questions for you, if you have time:

1. Can the brush you use for the chalk paint be cleaned and used again?

2. For a distressed look, you seem to prefer finishing with wax as opposed to polyurethane. Yet, the wax has to be reapplied after some months, so I’m assuming there is a noticeable difference in looks between the two?

3. Does the wax, after buffing, come off on your clothing or skin – when sitting at the table, for example?

4. You mentioned that you used the poly on your bathroom cabinets that are not distressed. Why did you choose poly in this case?

5. This is for any other readers who are thinking of posting a question. Will I need to check back here for your answer, or will it come to me in an email as well :)?

Thanks for a wonderfully helpful site!

Kat

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121 Diane Henkler April 7, 2014 at 8:36 pm

1. Can the brush you use for the chalk paint be cleaned and used again? YES, just like any other paint brush you use – Soap and water is all that is needed.

2. For a distressed look, you seem to prefer finishing with wax as opposed to polyurethane. Yet, the wax has to be reapplied after some months, so I’m assuming there is a noticeable difference in looks between the two? You may not have to reapply the wax, I have not had to do it on any of the pieces I have done. Maybe on a heavy use table top you would need to re-wax every few months. The poly finish sort of flattens the finish. An overall sealed look. The wax seems to bring more life to a piece. The finish takes on a patina. IF you have not seen both, it is hard to explain. Both are fine to use. I prefer the way wax looks.

3. Does the wax, after buffing, come off on your clothing or skin – when sitting at the table, for example? NO

4. You mentioned that you used the poly on your bathroom cabinets that are not distressed. Why did you choose poly in this case? To see how it would look. I had not used it over chalk paint up until I did it and I wanted to be able to tell readers about working with it.

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122 Kat April 7, 2014 at 9:01 pm

Diane, thanks for your prompt answers! (I got a notification in my email – that’s handy!)
I am going to try the wax and the poly on a couple of trays I want to paint to see how different they look.
Thanks again so much. I have bookmarked your site and will be following you for sure.
Kat

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123 Valerie April 8, 2014 at 12:58 am

Hi, Diane I found your site and just love it …so informative. You also do great work, just one? Would you use diy chalk paint over bare wood or do you have to prime.
Thanks for your reply and love the corner cabinet.

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124 Diane Henkler April 23, 2014 at 3:14 pm

Hi Valerie -

You can use chalk paint on bare wood. If it is an old piece that is dark and stained and you are using a light color of paint – you may have some tannins bleed through. If I am painting an old piece white – I use one coat of Kilz Original primer on it. You can also use clear shellac. These will block wood tannins from seeping through the paint. If it is a brand new piece of light color wood with no knots – you don’t need a primer.

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125 ann howard April 9, 2014 at 7:10 am

Hi Diane, Can you tell me if the chalk paint can be used on new pine without any undercoat?

THANKS Ann

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126 Diane Henkler April 9, 2014 at 8:03 am

Hi Ann -

Yes bare pine can be painted without any undercoat. The only problem that I can see is if there is a knot in the surface – a big one. I would sand over it. If there is a hole in the knot, put some Spackle in it and then sand smooth. Then proceed with painting.

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127 Patricia April 12, 2014 at 9:41 pm

HI Diane,
I wonder if you have tried using a roller to apply the DIY chalk paint and if so did you have any hiccups with it. I have two large projects I want to tackle which have flat surfaces which might come up slightly smoother with a roller application?

Many thanks

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128 Diane Henkler April 13, 2014 at 9:45 pm

Hi Patricia-

I have rolled on chalk paint when I have used the calcium carbonate powder recipe. It is very smooth and rolls on beautifully.

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129 Patricia April 14, 2014 at 12:01 am

Great, I’ll let you know how it goes :) PAtricia

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130 Diane Henkler January 28, 2014 at 12:10 pm

Glaze first and then add a protective coat of soft wax when the glaze is completely dry. buff the wax to bring out a subtle shine. This will protect the finish. If you protect first and then glaze, the glaze will come right off.

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131 Diane Henkler April 1, 2014 at 1:03 pm

Hi Donna – One way to remember the CCP/PoP recipe is: 2 + 2 + 2 + 2. 2 T CCP, 2 T PoP, 2 cups paint, 2 T water. Mix the CCP an PoP in the water first. You can add more water if needed to get a smooth mix, then mix it into the paint and stir well.

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