Painted furniture can last a lifetime when you seal it with a topcoat, but what topcoats and sealers work the best for painted furniture?
I recently finished one of the last two DIY projects in my master bedroom makeover. It has been a while since I last shared any of the updates in the room with you. A question from a reader, Kim, asked Could she use wax on top of a clear coat poly product to seal painted furniture? That made me realize I had not shared how I painted the desk in the office side of the room with you yet.
Kim was unhappy with how the clear coat poly she used looked on her newly painted piece of furniture. I thought the question was very timely since for the desk I painted recently, I tried a “new-to-me” poly to seal the painted finish. I didn’t like how it looked on the top of the desk, so much so that I wasn’t going to even post the desk makeover.
Kim’s question made me realize that mistakes are part of the DIY process and I should share my painted desk sealing mistake with you.
I painted Ed’s desk with Fusion Mineral Paint in the color Liberty Blue. I used the same paint/color to stencil the walls in my guest bath which turned out amazingly well and hid lots of imperfections on the walls.
I also used it to paint faux French enameled door signs for the hallway of darkness in my house. I like this paint and will use it again. I love the color – clear, vivid, not a dull blue and it has a nice consistency.
When using Fusion Mineral Paint on furniture, they state that a topcoat is not needed, but is recommended for tabletops for added durability. They have a few topcoats and sealers in their product line if you wish to seal your piece. I like to add a wax topcoat to provide durability and add a subtle sheen.
(I still have to attach the one side of the top to the base of the desk. In the photo you can see it is popped up).
What I didn’t like after painting the desk was the “Tough Coat wipe-on poly” that I used to seal and protect the top of the desk. In fact, it looked awful – streaky and uneven. :-(
I was upset with myself for not testing a “new-to-me” product out first on a piece of scrap wood before using it on a big piece of furniture. Lesson learned :-)
Notice I said “looked” as in the past tense.
The photo above shows how the top of the desk looks now… after I ended up sanding the poly off and repainting it. I then sealed the desk with my “go-to” sealing method on painted furniture which is soft wax that is buffed with a soft cloth to a subtle sheen.
To do this, I used another of the Fusion Mineral Paint waxes called, Furniture Wax. It is soft and smooth. Easy to apply and provides a durable finish with a beautiful luster. I liked this product.
Once I had the desk waxed and buffed I was very happy with the results and promised myself to always TEST! “new-to-me” products on scrap pieces of wood first to not only see how they look, but to figure out the right application method. Sometimes it takes a new skill that takes time to learn.
Why I Didn’t Like the Matte Tough Coat Wipe-On Poly
The Matte Tough Coat wipe-on poly was hard to apply evenly over the large flat surface which made it look streaky when dry. My mistake was not reading all the directions or watching the video about it on the Fusion Mineral Paint website before I began using the product.
What I learned too late was that they don’t recommend using the wipe-on poly over medium to dark paint colors due to water vapor being trapped which could cause streaking. I can attest to this… it does. Note to self… read the labels!
My Recommended Way to Topcoat or Seal Painted Furniture If Using Polyurethane
For 98% of my painted furniture makeovers, I like the smooth clear finish soft/paste wax gives a painted finish, but I don’t use it for everything. When I made over this bathroom cabinet with DIY chalk paint in my previous house, I sealed it with brush-on Minwax Polycrylic in a satin finish. It came out beautifully and was easy to achieve.
I think adding wax to protect a painted finish seems scary to some people. Poly seems like the easier method, but once you get the hang of using wax – you realize it is so easy to apply and buff.
The other reason I like using clear wax to protect painted furniture is that another layer can be reapplied at any time and will blend right in. You can’t do this with poly when you need to fix a scratch or mark that gets on the wood. You have to sand the area and then repaint and re-poly. This will create layers on top of the finish. You will see the fix. When you use wax – the fix will blend right in.
The Right Way to Apply Furniture Wax to Painted Furniture
Another thing many think you need when you are waxing to seal a piece of painted furniture is a lot of wax to create a durable finish. This is a mistake. Less wax is better.
With wax, one light thin coat applied with a soft lint-free rag or shop towel and then buffed with another clean towel will provide a smooth, even finish that has a subtle sheen. If you want more protection, simply add another light layer of wax over the surface and buff again. Buffing is simply the process of taking a clean, soft lint-free rag over the surface in a circular motion with some muscle behind it until the cloth slides across the surface.
On my kitchen table which gets a lot of use, I add a new layer of wax once a year. Applying a new layer takes 1o minutes. For every other piece of chalk painted furniture on which I have used wax to seal the surface, I haven’t had to add new wax. Some are going on 8 years. So the fear that you will have to keep waxing the furniture every few months is not valid.
My Favorite Painted Furniture Sealing Products
Painting furniture is all about adding your style to the piece. Everyone that has painted furniture will have their own preferences. We all have a different skill set and use different brushes, rollers and rags to makeover furniture. All of these factor into how a painted piece will turn out.
When I paint furniture, I like the look of clear wax over the paint. I know that many prefer the look of colored or dark waxes over the paint to make the finish look antiqued or to add depth. Most brands of waxes make colored waxes also. I have used these on a few pieces.
Both clear soft (or paste) wax and water-based poly products like Polycrylic seal and protect the painted finish in an invisible way and do not change the color of the wax. They may deepen the color a bit and add a subtle sheen, but they don’t change the color.
I liked the Fusion Mineral Paint Furniture Wax I used on the desk, but I also like the furniture waxes pictured below. I have used and recommend all of them. The least expensive being – Johnson’s Paste Wax to the priciest – Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Wax.
1. Kilz Sealing Clear Wax – I have only used this once so far on this night table. I really liked it. It was easy to buff to a sheen. It costs around $20.
2. Annie Sloan Clear Wax – You can’t go wrong with this wax. It goes on very smoothly and is easier to buff than any of the other waxes I have used. It runs around $25.
3. Miss Mustard Seed Clear Wax – A nice soft wax that is easy to buff. I also use her “white” colored wax on my kitchen table – which gives the unstained wood a whitewashed look. $16
4. Johnson’s Paste Wax – Is a bargain at around $7 a can and works great. The only downside is the smell as you apply it. Once dry it has no smell, but until it does, the smell can be overwhelming. I only use this when I can work outside or in my garage.
5. Fiddes and Sons Supreme Clear Wax – This is a medium priced wax. It sells for about $22 a can. I have used this brand more than any of the others. It has a slight smell, but not as bad as the Johnson’s. It buffs easily. I used in on the sideboard I painted turquoise.
6. Minwax Polycrylic – Is the best water-based poly to use to seal painted furniture. It is inexpensive and works great. You can’t go wrong applying it when you use a quality brush and/or a foam flocked roller with rounded ends. Apply in light coats, letting each coat dry before applying another light coat. 2- 3 coats will create a durable finish. It is sold in 1/2 pints and quarts ranging in price from $11 – $18.
Polycrylic also comes in a spray can. I prefer using a spray on certain pieces that have a lot of detail. When I see a can of it, I buy it immediately as it can be hard to find.
What Furniture Paint Topcoats and Sealers I Do Not Recommend
I am not a fan of sealers called clear coats, tough coats, wipe-on poly, soft varnish, or cream wax products. The reason is that they are hard to rub onto large flat surfaces, like a desk top, in a uniform way. They also have to be applied with a light hand and recoated to fill in missed spots and ensure even coverage. This causes streakiness.
If not applied correctly, they tend to dry improperly and become tacky. You need to have special skills to get it just right.If I can’t get it right after making over dozens of pieces of furniture, then someone newer to the furniture makeover process may really find it challenging. I would hate for someone to think they are a failure at furniture painting and sealing when the problem is just a challenging product.
The problem is simply a finicky product that takes skill to master. There are so many better sealers on the market that will give great results with less effort.
When is a Sealer or Topcoat Not Needed Over Painted Furniture?
If you use gloss paint, you do not have to use a sealer. In fact if you do, you will alter the sheen. The gloss finish is tough, wipeable and acts as a sealer all on its own.
Marlene Feinstein says
I am painting a glass top of a cabinet which is black topped under the glass. I am going to faux paint with Folk Art Enamel paint and do a marbleized effect. Can I use a Poly rub on sealant so it will not chip. I cannot spray paint or spray poly. Because of location of cabinet etc. Or maybe I do not have to seal this table top. Thank you in advance.
Diane Henkler says
Hi Marlene – The marbleized effect on your cabinet sounds nice. Is it going to be done just on the top under the glass? If you are going to be putting glass over the top of the area you are painting, then you don’t have to add any poly. If you are painting areas that will not be under glass then it is best to seal these. I would use Minwax Brush on Polycrylic. It will not yellow over time like oil-based polys do. It comes in a few different sheens. Satin, Semi-Gloss and Gloss. Since marble has a slight sheen to it, I would use the satin or semi.
Marlene Feinstein says
Thanks so much looks great.
Hannah says
This was such a fun and helpful read! I just ordered two unfinished bookcases for our living room and I plan to paint them (too many shades of wood going on already otherwise I would stain) but I feel paralyzed about the last step. I plan to sand, prime, and paint but what sort of wax should I use? I love the idea of a tinted wax that could give depth but it’s my first rodeo and I’m overwhelmed. Any tips??? Thank you!
That Sassy Life coach says
How fab! What shade of blue did you use?
Kim says
Diane, thanks for an article full to the top of good information about sealers. I understand you ended up using a wax for the top but did I’m unsure what you used on the sides of the desk. I was considering using wax on a small chest and using polyacrylic on the sides because it seems “easier”. What are your thoughts and what did you do on this desk? Thanks.
Diane Henkler says
Hi Kim – I used the wax. It does take some elbow grease to get the large sections buffed, but I like the subtle sheen. Of course you can wax the top of your chest and poly the sides. It will all be clear. I think I would use a satin finish poly, not a gloss though. The gloss would be shinier than the buffed wax and you may see a sheen difference.
Diane Henkler says
Hi Kim –
I used the wax. It does take some elbow grease to get the large sections buffed, but I like the subtle sheen. Of course you can wax the top of your chest and poly the sides. It will all be clear. I think I would use a satin finish poly, not a gloss though. The gloss would be shinier than the buffed wax and you may see a sheen difference.
Becky in 'Bama says
The blue desk is stunning and looks truly professionally done. (I consider you my go-to professional.)
I want to paint an old chest that is terribly scratched on the top. What kind of prep will I need to do? the chest has been stained and ‘varnished’ MANY years ago. Should I lightly sand all around to prepare for paint? I am really most concerned with the deep scratches on the top.
Diane Henkler says
Hi Becky –
To prep your chest, you need to give it an overall sanding with 100 grit sandpaper. Go over the entire surface to rough it up a little. This will provide some “tooth” for the paint to grab onto.
For the top, go over with more pressure to remove the scratches. Keep sanding until they are gone. Once you prime and paint, the scratches will be gone or at least lessened.
If using regular latex paint. You will need to prime first with a product like KILZ Max or Glidden Gripper. Then paint. When using latex paint, the white primer you put on first will stop tannins from bleeding through the paint.
If using chalk paint, after sanding, you can simply paint. If you are going to use a light color of paint on the chest and the wood is old, tannins may come through the paint. You can put a clear shellac over the wood first, then use chalk paint to stop this from happening.
Sue Bauman says
Incredibly helpful instructions, as always! Thank you!
Alice Morgan says
I am crazy over the blue color you selected can you suggest a similar color for me to. Use on my outdoor storage barn I have a window pane without glass to put on it want it to look like a doll house. Another request is there a product I can use behind the pane that will give it the look of a real window?
Diane Henkler says
Hi Alice –
Fusion Mineral paint can be used outside so you could use the exact color I did. It is called Liberty Blue. As for window paint to look like a real window, you can paint the glass on the back of the sash a black-grey. When you hang it and look at it, it will resemble glass on a window.
You can also use Mirror paint to make the pane look like a mirror. It is a spray paint that you can buy at the craft store. I think it is called Looking Glass. I used it on a window sash I made into a fireplace screen. You can see how I did that here: bit.ly/2WLyGaGbit
Sherry Darlington says
I’ve never used the wax finish before. Is it a problem in highly detailed areas? Does the wax build up or how do gi ou buff the ornate details? Thanks so much!
Kim Tucker says
Thank you Diane. I read such conflicting opinions and it makes it hard to know what to believe. I like that your opinions are experience based and you back them up with pictures to show how beautifully it works out.
I failed to tell you in my earlier comment that your desk is BEAUTIFUL! The color and the smooth finish are perfection.
Cindy says
I have painted quite a few pieces of furniture and my favorite and easiest top coat to apply is the polycrylic. Also, my favorite chalk paint to use is Rethunk Junk. It has its own little sheen and often doesn’t need an additional top coat.
Debbie says
A couple years ago, I used homemade chalk paint to paint a small desk and sealed the top with Minwax Poly. Now after daily use, the poly has darkened and is starting to peel where my arm rests on the surface while using my desktop computer. Ugh. What do you recommend to remove the poly? I’ve not used wax before, but this post gives me hope that the desk can be redone. Thanks! I enjoy reading your blog and one of these days I may tackle painting the kitchen cabinets.
Tracey says
Thank you for your answer, Diane! I have some leftover chalk paint, so I will try that first. You are a wealth of good information! Have a great weekend.
Tracey says
I love the blue on that desk! Super pretty color. I have a question related to a waxed finish. I have painted lots of pieces with chalk paint and a wax sealer. BUT…I also love to change things up and repaint them at times. Do you know how you would go about painting a new color over a waxed finish? I would assume the wax would resist any new paint/primer. This is my main concern with a wax. I love the look, but I always ask myself if I think I may want to change this down the road. If the answer is yes, I usually poly vs. wax since I don’t know how to paint over it. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
Diane Henkler says
Hi Tracey –
There are two ways to paint over a waxed finish. If the wax is cured and not tacky, you can simply use chalk paint over it. Chalk paint will stick to anything.
The second way to paint over wax is to remove it first. It is not hard, just another step. To remove the wax, dip a sponge or rag into odorless mineral spirits. Go over the surface with the soaked sponge/rag and it will remove the wax. Continue over the entire piece to remove all the wax. Once you have the wax removed, clean the furniture with hot sudsy water and detergent. Wipe off excess water, let dry and then you can use any paint over the surface.
Terri says
Great info! I recently did a navy blue dresser for my son and like you, I usually use wax. This time I did a poly and I am so disappointed with the finish. Congrats on the new baby!
Diane Henkler says
Thanks Terri – Water-based poly is a great product, one that I always used, but after making over my first piece of furniture with chalk paint and wax, it was the finish I had always tried to achieve with poly and never could. The buffed wax makes a piece look like the piece has a smooth factory finish. I love it – both for modern pieces and ones that I distress and age.
Kim says
Wow, I feel semi-famous and a lot less annoying now. LOL. Thank you for answering my questions in such detail. If you haven’t figured it out yet I am always full of questions so…..I have another one (just to make sure I perfectly understand something). You used Minwax Polycrylic on your light colored bathroom cabinet. Has it yellowed? I was afraid to use it on my light colored table for fear of that. And since it’s not a wax could I put a coat of the Polycrylic over the Dixie Belle clear coat? Okay, so that was 2 questions. I tell you I’m full of them. I annoy myself sometimes!
Diane Henkler says
Hi Kim –
Your question was perfectly timed. :-) Polycrylic is a water-based poly, it will not yellow over time. I have a few pieces of furniture that I used Polycrylic on before chalk paint and wax came on the scene and none of it has yellowed with age. Oil-based poly will yellow very quickly especially if it is in a dark room. I never use it on furniture.
I think you can put Polycrylic over the clear coat, but I would test it on an area that is hidden first. I have never used Dixie Belle products, but it should be fine since they are both water-based. I would go over the clearcoat with 220 grit sandpaper to rough it up slightly – clean it off and then apply a thin coat of Polycrylic. Let the coat dry overnight to make sure it is completely dry, then apply another light coat. Two coats should be plenty.
Roxanne says
HI Diane,! I’ve been thinking of doing over the world’s ugliest triple dresser and the color you used is exactly what I had in my head! The dresser came along with my husband 46 years ago, and he is strangely attached to it!! Ugh, but it does offer a lot of storage. Two questions…how does humidity affect application? (I live in upstate S.C. and it’s very humid in my garage). And secondly, how long do you need to let the paint cure before it’s safe to move it back inside and “merchandise” the top, as Christopher Lowell used to say. Thanks for an inspiring post!
Diane Henkler says
Hi Roxanne –
I live in Chapin, so I have the same situation – the hot humidity of living in SC. I don’t like to paint outdoors in the summer months and if I have to, I paint the pieces right in place inside my house with the AC on. I flatten a big cardboard box to make a dropcloth to place the furniture on. The cardboard protects the flooring and makes it easy to turn the piece of furniture so you can paint all sides easily. Check out this post to see it in action:http://bit.ly/2G2KOys
Right now – spring is the best time to paint out in your garage… but wait until the pollen has stopped, here in the Midlands of SC there is a thick yellow coat on everything. Once you have the piece painted, I would wait a day or two before moving it. It doesn’t have to be totally cured to move. Once in place in your home, be gentle for a few days to a week with it. It can take up to 4 weeks to fully cure.
Sharon H says
Oooh, thanks so much, Diane! Very good information and I will always know where to come when I need to “read this again”….. I was thinking about half way through this that, if DIANE has a problem with a product, I can absolutely assume “I” will have a problem with it….thanks again! Have a great weekend.
Diane Henkler says
Hi Sharon – I am so happy that my post will be of help to you. :-) I don’t like to write negatively about any product, but I want everyone to have success so sharing my likes and dislikes makes sense. Hope you have a great weekend, too.
Sassy says
Hi, Diane,
Your desk looks beautiful. Color, finish, lovely work, so professional!
I, too, use wax over poly on items that will get a lot of wear. After several coats of MinWax Satin Poly, I applied Johnson’s Paste Wax lightly with a very fine 0000 steel wool in circular motion, which eliminates little burrs caused by dust or particles drifting into the poly as it dries. Then i buff with a soft cloth and follow with a sheepskin buffing head on my drill. I did a large dining room table with 2 leaves and it turned out soft and waxy looking but it’s tough. Extra coats meant more work but I never wanted to do that big table again!
BTW, the paint guy recommended a faster drying poly which I used and had to sand off because it dried much too quickly for a long tabletop. The quick poly had no “flow” that would allow it to settle into a smooth coat and would dry before I reached the other end of the table : (
Diane Henkler says
Hi Sassy –
Thanks for sharing your process. So you use wax over poly? I always remove the poly and then apply the wax? Does the wax sit on top of the poly or does the steel wool and electric buffing head on your drill really help it to get into the surface?
Molly says
I’m still giggling over this article, mainly because of the timing. I am, hopefully, on the downside of a furniture makeover goof project myself, and your words have helped me to lighten up over the mess I’ve made. I’ve already successfully painted two pieces with Annie Sloan’s paints and waxes. This time, I zoned out and without thinking unnecessarily primed the piece first. Big mistake. I have been sanding and painting and sanding and painting and probably will not get back to the surface I began with. But, I’m persevering and will learn to love the end result! Learn by doing, right? Or, read the directions…
Diane Henkler says
Hi Molly –
Good to know we are not alone. In fact, I am sure there are many others doing the same. I have made many mistakes or tried something and it didn’t turn out like I thought. On one such paint makeover mistake, I began to scrub the paint off and as I was doing it the most amazing finish began to surface. My mistake turned out to a big win – I hope your project turns into something you love.
Alison Johnson says
Very helpful post!
Diane Henkler says
Hi Alison –
Thanks – it is good to know that you found the post helpful :-) Since I have been writing about the topic for years and there are hundreds of other blogs and websites that post about furniture painting, it is hard to know what is helpful for readers. I have so many posts deep in my archives that I plan to re-write to update them to answer all the questions I receive.
Hope you have a great weekend. Ed was cleared after his knee surgery to start hitting golf balls. If the weather permits he will be down at the club hitting balls at the range tomorrow. :-)