Before and After Furniture Makeover in Turquoise


The best decorating advice I have ever received was not from a big name designer, magazine, or book, but someone who I found was always right. That someone was my mom.  She was passionate about making a house a home and I remember more than once hearing her say – Don’t decorate a room all at once.  Let it evolve.  You will be so much happier and will  enjoy the room for many years to come.

I follow her advice when I decide what I am going to do to each room in my home. There is no rush to get it done – I have lived with hand-me downs my entire married life.  I don’t need the newest, best, or greatest – just what makes a room comfortable, light, and pretty enough, will do– no cookie cutter perfection – just a casual, comfy place that has good light to read by, a place to put feet up, watch TV, and a surface to place a drink.  Pretty comes last, but I will admit – it is the most fun!

I have been enjoying the fun part the past week helping my family room layer by layer evolve to the prettier stage.

Country Living Family Room

Image: Country Living

A few years before I started blogging, I was planning to do an overhaul of the family room.  I had stripped the room of its décor and left only the big pieces of furniture.  I painted the walls in a soft white color, then Ed lost his job and I just stopped. The expense was not necessary. The room was comfy and fulfilled our needs just as it was.  Wants went out the backdoor.  Since then, I have collected many images of how I want the room to look.  This room(above) is a bit formal, but I love how all the colors are mixed on top of the white backdrop and unobstructed windows.


Image: BH&G

Another photo of the type of look I am trying to achieve in my family room.  Love the pink throw – that is a big – WANT!

Before and After Furniture Makeover

sideboard before


This sideboard is a hand-me down from my mom and dad. I have had it for about 4 years. As you can see it has traditional styling with a country twist, has beautiful lines, and is in perfect shape. Even though it is beautiful piece just as it is, the orange-y brown color doesn’t excite me.  Since the layers of the décor in this room have been grounded in white, it is time to add the pops of color to get the room closer to my vision.  This piece will be the first big color infusion. It is also the first thing you see as you enter the room and I want it to invite people into the room with a big smile.


sideboard after


It adds an entirely new energy to the room – exactly what I was trying to achieve.  All done with the power of paint and some new hardware.


There are still more layers of décor to add, things to change or remove, but the room is starting to have a personality again.


When I put the original pulls back on after painting, they were too dark and the styling was too traditional.  I loved the label pulls that were on the library file drawers I recently redid in my studioffice.  I went in search to find something similar to use on the sideboard.  I found these brass label and drawer pulls in the Van Dykes Restorers catalog after seeing them on Pinterest on a dresser that Destiny from A Place For Us made over. I wanted un-lacquered brass, but they were sold out until July. I didn’t want to wait that long, so I opted for the bright brass and aged them myself to tone the brass down down a bit. Here is the link to the post on how I aged the brass.

how to cover the unfinished back on a piece of furniture

The sideboard was designed to go against a wall. The back is made of a stained plywood board.  Since I use it as a sofa table and the back shows a bit,  I also needed to address a way to improve how the back looked.


before: In the top photo you can see how the back of the sideboard used to look – dark brown and blah!

during: I found beadboard wallpaper on clearance at Lowes and bought a roll to cover the back. Very easy to do – took less than 20 minutes as the wallpaper was pre-glued and I just needed to wet the back, book it for a few minutes to get the glue released, and then applied it to the back. I needed 3 pieces to cover. I used a mat knife to trim the excess.

after:  Pretty Beadboard backing!


Once it was painted the same color as the rest of the sideboard it no longer is an eyesore.  Someday – maybe lamp cords will be a thing of the past.

I made Chalk Paint using the Calcium Carbonate Powder recipe to paint the sideboard turquoise.  Using this recipe over the non-sanded grout or Plaster of Paris DIY chalk paint recipes has one advantage – it does not harden at all after being mixed.  If you are painting larger pieces and need more than a small amount of paint – then I would suggest you use the Calcium Carbonate Power.

To learn more about making and painting with DIY chalk paint check out these posts:

Testing 1..2..3…Versions of Chalk Paint

Chalk Paint Review Update

Chalk Paint Recipes


I made the paint color by mixing two colors of turquoise paint I had leftover from previous projects.  Glidden Peacocks Plume and Valspar Seafarer were the colors I mixed 50/50 in a bucket to come up with the color.   I used two coats and let the paint dry.   I then added a white glaze over it to add more lightness and depth to the color.


I used a coffee can to mix the glaze mixture using:

4 parts Valspar Clear Glazing Liquid
1 part white paint
Optional:  1/4 – 1 part water – just a little to thin the mix if needed


Working on one area at a time, I brushed the glaze/paint mixture on very liberally, waited a few minutes and then dragged another (dry brush) through the glaze and wiping the brush in a rag to clean off the glaze, so I could repeat the brushing off process.   In the photo above – the glaze was just applied – I have not dragged the dry brush over it yet.   Once you do – the white color will lessen. You can drag a dry brush over the area a few times to get the look you are after.  I wanted subtle.   I repeated the process until all surfaces were covered.


After the glaze was added, brushed off and dry – (wait at least 24 hours) I sanded all the edges with medium grit sandpaper to age the surface.

Many readers ask me how much they should sand a piece before painting. I sand everything before painting it with fine or medium grit sandpaper.  A quick going over with the paper attached to a sanding block is all that is needed to rough the surface a bit. It only takes a few minutes, but will help with lasting adhesion.  When distressing – it is up to personal choice how much aging you want to add.


I then added one thin layer of Fiddes & Sons paste wax, let it dry to a haze, and then buffed it with a soft cloth to bring out the shine.   I like this wax – it costs more than Johnson’s, but goes on like a dream and does not smell as much.  Johnson’s smells pretty intense, especially if you can’t work outside.


If you look closely at the doors, you can see the white brush strokes of the glazing coat that was left on.  Any glaze or colored wax will add color depth to the painted finish.    You can do the same thing with Liming or a white wax over a clear wax coat.


The new label holder drawer pulls add character and make the sideboard look more like a one-of-a-kind piece.


a few details…


When painting furniture with doors, I sometimes don’t paint the inside of the doors. If it was summer and I took this to my garage to paint, I would have removed the doors and painted both sides. Since I had to paint it in my family room, I decided to tape around the lip on the back and just paint around the edges. When the painters tape was removed, the insides of the doors, looked nice and neat with the outer edges painted only.


I bought the glass knobs for the doors at Lowes. They had silver centers that I spray painted gold using Rustoleum Metallic Gold spray paint so they would match the drawer pulls.


The new lampshades were a “find” on a recent trip to Target.  They are from the new Threshold line.  There were just two of them sitting all by themselves on the shelf. They had my name on them, so I had to bring them home :)



Paint is truly a DIY decorator’s best friend. It is amazing how it can transform a space so quickly and affordably. It literally can change a room in only a few hours.    Now I gotta tackle painting my “mollifier” in the room.   More to come on that soon.

To see more painted furniture projects head on over to my Furniture Makeover Project Gallery

Add more depth to a painted finish on furniture with glaze. It is so easy to do. I used white over turquoise paint to do this furniture makeover


  1. says

    excellent publish, very informative. I’m wondering why the opposite experts of this sector don’t understand this.
    You should continue your writing. I am sure, you have a great readers’ base already!

  2. Danielle says

    This is perfect! Exactly the tutorial I was looking for. I’m running into a problem with finding the Valspar clear glazing liquid…Home Depot suggested using parks super glaze which is in a box. I’m nervous about it because I don’t think it’s the same thing and I’ve never done this before and I’m terrified of screwing it up lol. Any suggestions on what else I could use?

    • says

      Hi Danielle – The super glaze in the box is not the same thing. It is a clear protective poly like glaze finish. Good thing you didn’t use it. You can find glaze at the craft store or any hardware store. True Value has one called Simply Glaze. Craft paint brands all have glaze in jars and bottles. Home Depot sells Behr and they call it Faux Glaze. It come in a browny gold can. Tell the person behind the counter that you want glaze to create a faux finish. They seem to understand this term more.

      • Danielle says

        Thank you! Thank you! Such a speedy response lol…I will be on my way to Home Depot here soon!

  3. Bethany says

    I want to glaze a dresser after painting it a similar turquoise color. It’s currently painted white, and I’ve sanded it to make it mostly smooth (I want it to look a little distressed). Do you recommend I paint it a dark brown color underneath so that when I’m finished painting/glazing it, it will have the dark edges?

    • says

      Hi Bethany – If you paint the dresser brown over the white, when you sand the white is going to show as a layer. If you don’t want that to happen, I would strip the areas you want to distress first. Then paint. Take a photo on your phone so you remember where the stripped areas are when it comes time to distress. Walmart sells CitraStrip in spray can. It is the best – no smell and not as messy.

  4. Arlette says

    Love your pieces an fall the information. I have to look now further! Thank you for sharing.

  5. Trish says

    When making my own chalk paint or adding paint to a glaze, what sheen do I use. Flat, Satin, Semi-gloss ???

    • says

      Hi Trish – I use satin or flat paint, but it really does not matter. Once you add the Calcium Carbonate Powder, the paint will go flat. For glaze – I usually use satin, but again – it really does not matter as long as it is not high gloss paint.

  6. David says

    Hello Diane. I love the dresser. It looks awesome. I can not get the Glidden Peacocks Plume and the Valspar Seafarer. Are they old names. I want to do my Bedroom set just like you did the dresser. Can you advise If the names are current or are they different brands. Thank you for your time. David

    • says

      Hi David – Here are the numbers for both paints. If you take them to the paint store, they should be able to get the color from these numbers:

      Seafarer: 5007-10A Valspar

      Peacock’s Plume: Specify #16BG 24/357 Order #A1249

      Any paint store nowadays can make colors if they have the numbers. Home Depot should have all the old numbers and colors in their books behind the counter. The same for Lowes and Valspar.

  7. says

    Very nice piece. Thanks for the detailed transformation description.
    I just picked up a sideboard today at the local thrift shop and found your piece when I was looking for ideas.
    I am still not sure what it will become but I am ready to get moving. Interestingly, my piece is finished on all 4 sides, so no wallpaper required.

  8. furniture painting says

    that’s certainly not a typical or standard color choice but it looks great! i could see it in a baby girl’s room

  9. says

    I have used plaster Paris before to make my own chalk paint and it was fine. Yesterday went to mix up
    some and what a disaster got very grainy. When I mixed the pp with water is was very smooth then added the paint was a little thick so added a few drops of water and everything went down hill .. HELP

    • says

      Hi Nancy – Did you use the same paint that you used the first time you made chalk paint or use another paint brand or sheen?

      Plaster of Paris tends to thicken with some paints that already have a primer in them or an acrylic additive. When I use PoP, I make sure I am using standard run of the mill latex paint that has no primer in it. These formulas are getting harder to find as paint companies are making more and more of their paint lines “paint + primer” in one formulas. Some don’t even mention it on the label.

      I use Calcium Carbonate Powder now to make all my chalk paint since it mixes in fine with all the paint formulas I have used and I have tried many. I know True Value Easy Care has a latex that is just paint as well as most brands inexpensive “contractor paint” has no primer. It using PoP you may want to try one of these.

  10. Tammy says

    Love it! It is so beautiful! I have a wallpaper backsplash so I love the back of your piece. Just wondering, instead of the post-glaze wax, would polycrilic work out? Would I need to sand between glaze and polycrilic? Did you sand between any of the steps? I’ve heard that using wax means stripping the paint would be required before reprinting so I want to avoid wax.

    • says

      Hi Liz, There is a link in the post.I will have to make it stand out more on the post. :-) Here is the link:


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