Over the years, having lived and decorated 5 houses, I have learned quite a few things about decorating. It is my passion. I seek and search for ideas and inspiration everywhere I look. I get excited when I learn something new or see a clever idea. I even have a Pinterest Board titled, Clever and Stylish Ideas. It is my favorite board.
I have always been a DIY’er and never used a professional to install a window treatment. I also have two good friends with professional window treatment businesses complete with workrooms, from whom I have picked up many tips and tricks.
Over the past week I have been tweaking ready-made drapes to fit the width of my sliding glass doors in our new house. I am using everything I have learned about making and hanging drapes using traditional methods as well as not so traditional ones and also found a new-to-me idea that I thought I would share with you.
I also have a few more drapery hanging tips for you that may not only help your window treatments look like they were professionally installed, but function better as well. All of them are easy and can be done in minutes.
4 Tricks to Use When Hanging Drapes and Curtains
Tip #1: The trick I just learned:
As I was removing all the professionally made and hung drapes that were left by the previous owner of my house, I found these specialty angle irons on the wall right under the rod brackets on each side of all the sliders and windows in the house.
Do you know what they are used for? I didn’t at first glance, but I do now :-)
One of the reasons they were mounted to the wall is to hide the opening between the side of the drape and the wall.
This is the sideview of the drapes in my studioffice. When you walk into the room it is the first thing you see. Not very pretty.
I went in search of these angle irons to make sure it was something a homeowner could buy before I posted about it, but I could only find them sold in bulk at pro drapery workroom websites. I have many that I removed, but since I don’t like to post about things that readers won’t be able to easily find at a craft or hardware store, I came up with an even simpler way to close up the side opening between a drape/curtain and the wall…
…use a small screw eye.
It has to be small so that the eye is against the wall.
Line the screw eye up with the height of where the drapery hooks attach to the rings.
To use it, instead of placing the last drapery hook into a ring, place it in the mounted screw eye and…..
….voila! No more side light passing through the space between the wall and the drape. The view from the side of the drape looks much better.
Variation: If you have a pretty pole style rod bracket, you can simply take the last curtain ring and place it over the bracket before putting the rod into the bracket. 1.2.3… easy. When the rod is placed back into the bracket it will curve around the rod and will close up the gap. The only problem with this method is if the bracket is long, the ring may move up towards the rod and won’t be as effective as the screw eye.
Tip #2: Abracadabra…. Function
Drapery wands help you to easily open and close drapes so they glide across the rod without having to touch the fabric which can soil or tear it. They sell them on Amazon in clear acrylic or white metal. I have the white metal kind.
To install one, simply clip it to the first ring or drapery hook on each panel.
Just like in a nice hotel. :-) Closing the drapes has never been easier. When not in use, the wand is hidden behind the folds of the drape.
Tip #3: Hanging Drapes Using Metal Clip-On Rings
In my search for white rings to hang the drapes in my house, I could only find clip-on style in white in the desired size. Clip-on rings make for easy hanging, but I didn’t want the clips showing. Many drapes come with back tabs where you can clip the rings, or you can pinch the fabric to create pleats. I have tried all these methods but prefer using drapery hooks to get a more tailored look.
On the white drapes I bought at Target, I used the back tabs that are used to slide a rod through to attach each hook instead. You can use drapery tapes to attach hooks, but I have found this simple method works just fine for me. To make sure each hook was placed at the same height, I used a sewing gauge to mark exact placement for each hook.
When using drapery hooks, you have to make sure the hook does not go through to the front of the drape. You only want it to grab the back tab or lining.
Thread the hole in the ring through the hook to attach. I left the clips on since you can’t see them. I may want to use them someday for something else. :-)
Tip #4: How to Create Perfect Pleats or Folds
After you hang the drapes, even if you pressed them, you are still going to have wrinkles and the fabric may not fall into the soft folds you envisioned. The trick to achieve a nicely draped drape goes way back in my memory as I remember my mom doing it after she washed the curtains in the house.
How to create soft even folds: Folds need to be trained, sometimes they just won’t fall right without daily training. Arrange the fabric into even folds with your hands, then tie a ribbon around the drape mid point and if your drapes are long you can tie 2 – 3 ribbons top, center, and bottom. Don’t tie it on too tightly, but just enough to keep the folds secure. After a few days or longer you can remove the ribbon. The longer the ribbon is on the better trained the fabric will become. Use a steamer to remove any creases the ribbon may have made in the fabric.
Variation:
Instead of using ribbon to train the fabric so it drapes evenly, use straight pins to hold each pleat or fold in the drape/curtain in place. Just as with the ribbon method, the longer you keep them in place, the better trained the fabric will become to fall into place. A steamer will remove any creases they leave in the fabric.
I know there are many other tips and tricks that help make hanging drapes and curtains easier and look better. Do you have any to share?
Where you can buy:
Speciality Drapery Angle Irons
I just wanted to thank you for these great tips. The one about using wands to move curtains instead of hands was especially appreciated since my wife and I wanted to use wands instead of hands but hadn’t seen anything about wands to move curtains until I read your article. Also using a sewing gauge to place hooks for ring attachment was a great idea since I have no experience with sewing gauges but I want one now. All 4 tips were excellent, I wish you would write a book and share all your methods.
Help please! I finally gave up trying to find pinch pleated drapes for my three approximately 100″ windows. Rather than pay at least $700 each for custom drapes which I can’t even examine before ordering, I reluctantly decided to buy drapes with grommets. I’ve looked online for weeks and the only ones I like are 50″ wide. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO SEW GROMMET PANELS TOGETHER TO CREATE A WIDER PIECE? I appreciate our input!
I am thoroughly disgusted with retailers not offering pinch pleated drapes. Look in any better magazine and you’ll see they are used pretty much used exclusively. Second, why ado they offer so few wider widths??
Always try J C PENNEY. have the largest selection, colors, designs.
Love this post, thanks so much for all the tips!
Your opinion please. We have a beach house with a bay window and I am hanging a gauzy white linen. I want a loose blowing gently in the breeze look. Would hanging them from the rod pocket or loosely placed clips look and work better. They will also loosely puddle on the floor or should I hem them?
Thank you this is keeping me up at night
Jb
Hi Jeri –
It is really more about what look you like better. Clips are more popular now. I prefer using them over the rod pocket. Clips also make the curtain easy to close and open. A rod pocket makes it a little harder. I like everything white. White rod, clips and curtains, but any color or wood tone would look good. I would love to have Driftwood colored rods and clips someday. :-)
As far as puddling. It looks dreamy, but since you are using white linen, in reality, the bottom will get dirty from sitting on the floor. If you have pets, they will walk over it. You will also notice dirt accumulating on the puddled bottom. I have mine so they just skim the floor, not puddle. It still looks casual and beachy this way.
I hope this helps you figure out what to do so you get a good night sleep tonight. :-) Happy weekend.
Boy I appreciate you confirming what I knew but wasn’t acknowledging.
Now I think I have something to share with you. Although everything is beachy around here it isn’t overdone. The floors are a gray distressed pine and the legs of various pieces, light fixtures are all pretty much black iron. So rather than another black piece in the adjoining living room and dining room I already did as you wished.
I took unfinished rods and used an aging grey material and then got out my acrylics and added the washed out white and soft brown to create the look of driftwood. I even did the round end pieces and it looks terrific
Now I will hem the gaudy linen and hang from the clips. This bay window will soon be a finished look. Thanks so much for your advice.
Hi Jeri –
Your room sounds dreamy. I especially like how you think and used your ingenuity to create the look of driftwood on the rods. To me that is the best kind of decorating…making your vision come to life by DIYing. No reason to settle for anything else just because what you envision is not sold in a store. :-) Thanks for sharing what you did. Enjoy the room’s new look.
When using pins to hang curtains, is there a possibility that the ring may rip through the back fabric? I also don’t like the look of clip on rings and want to hide the clip, but I’m afraid I may ruin the back of the curtain with the pin. Is that even possible? Thank you!
Hi Beverly – If your drapes are made of thin or sheer fabric, then you run the risk of damaging the fabric and the pin may even go through to the front of the drape. Drapes need to be made of heavier fabric or have a lining so you can stick the pin through the lining or just grab a little from the back of a heavier fabric drape. I have always hung my drapes this way when I didn’t want to use the rod pocket or clips and have never had a problem with drapes ripping. The pins do leave a tiny pin prick size hole when they are removed that may be noticed in tightly woven fabrics, but not in larger woven fabrics .Once washed, the any pin prick hole will disappear. I hope this makes sense. :-)
Diane,
We recently purchased a home and they had beautiful traverse rods with many heavy drapes. We are replacing drapes and want to use grommet drapes. Is there any ideas to be able to use the present rods?
Appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Hi Glenna –
I think it depends on the rod and how far out they project from the wall. Grommet drapes sometimes require more clearance. Traverse rods are usually installed pretty close to the wall. Grommet drapes typically need more depth since they have to accommodate the fabric that folds back to the wall.
If you want to try, I think you would lose the open and close function of the traverse rod. You will need to remove all the moving parts, hooks and mechanism on the back of the traverse rod. This is pretty easy to do. You would need to remove the finials and the stops at the ends of the rod. Once off, you can reattach the finials.
Removing these parts will allow the grommets to pass over the rod in a smooth motion. I am not sure there would be a way to use the traverse hooks to attach the grommets so you could open and close the drapes with a traverse cord.
The proper use of the words “drape” and “drapery” is as follows.
“Drapery” or the plural “draperies” is a noun that names the fabric that is fashioned and hung on windows (or elsewhere).
“Drape” is a verb that describes the act of hanging a drapery, as in “drape the draperies in a manner that is soft and romantic”. Other uses: one would drape a cape around one’s shoulders. One would drape a decorative scarf on an upholstered piece of furniture.
“Drape” is never used to identify the “drapery” that is hanging on a window.
“Never?!” You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means.
Marie,
I, too, love the English language, but I try my best to NOT use it to point out other people’s mistakes, especially on their own blog. If you’re offended by the improper use of a word, perhaps you could try removing that stick from your butt! It works perfectly every time, and will make you a much more pleasant person! And do remember that reading a blog is your choice. No one is forcing you to continue reading if the writing isn’t up to your standards. If you do not like the content, close the tab and move on to something that’s more inline with your needs and/or personal preferences. Might I suggest “9 Steps to Hating Yourself a Little Less”, by Mark Manson. And don’t forget to remove that stick!
Thanks for the tips! I’m struggling right now, trying to decide which window treatment to use in my LR. Your post has definitely helped! And I really enjoy your blog!
The first paragraph in my previous comment is directed at Marie, the English scholar. Lighten up, sister! Life’s too short to be so picky!
Marie,
Thank you… I’m with ya sista!!!
Referring to draperies as drapes is like (if not) bad grammar. It makes me shudder.
I bought sheers and the top of them are flopping over as the fabric is gauzy thin. There is room to fit another rod, but thought there might be a fix to put something that is somewhat invisible…do you know anything? It looks so wavy and I want to visibly uniform. Thank you.
My daughter has ready made silk drapes that she wants warm Windows lining added to, and wants to hang with hidden tabs. She does not want rings or grommets. The lined drapes will be very heavy. Do you think using a super stiff interfacing/stabilizer as the drapery header & to make the hidden tabs from that as well will allow them to hang properly? She will open some, but not a lot. Thanks for such a helpful post!
Hi TC – Dritz and other brands make stabilizers just for this purpose. I would check at the fabric store and ask to see what interfacings they have for draperies. I think you will find exactly what you need. Some are sewn in, others ironed on. I think if you sew it on, it will hold the lining very well while still allowing the drapes to open and close.
Thanks so much! Wish me luck.. Trying this weekend.
Hi TC – Wishing you luck.:-) It really is not hard, just takes a little bit of time and some focus.
I have sliding doors in my kitchen-breakfast area and the ceiling is 9 ft tall with 2-3 inches of crown molding if I place the drapes just below the crown molding there will be about 19-20 inches of wall showing from the ceiling to the top of the door also my drapes are 52 inche wide as I am just framing the glass doors and extending them another 3 inches wide on both sides do you think that is too much wall space showing? thank you Jeanne
Hi Jeanne – I think the drapes will look great hung just below the crown molding. This is the proper place to put the rod for drapery panels. The long length of the drapes will add more impact to your space and much better than placing the rod directly over the sliding door moulding. This post may help you decide: http://www.recreateyour.com/how-to-measure-for-window-treatments/
I am hanging linen curtains on a 120 inch rod which needs 4 brackets. What type of rings do I get so they go over the brackets?
Thank you
Kirsch makes c-rings that allow passage of the ring past their “center bypass bracket”. Drapery Rods Direct and Designer Drapery Hardware are both websites that carry the product and their pricing is almost identical.
Hi Pam – Thanks for this great info about where to get C rings. I know other readers will benefit from it too.
Hi Diane,
I’m really stuck on a problem for which I don’t think there is a solution — but if there is, I’m sure you will be the one to find it! I’m covering a 6-foot slider with drapes that must all stack on the left when open. I plan to use hooks and rings. The rod will be long enough that it should have a center support but that, of course, would make it necessary to have a center close. Is there any way out of this?
You may be able to find a center bypass support bracket, but you need C rings for the rings to pass this bracket. This will allow you draw all of your drapes to the left.
Hi Jenny – Thanks for taking the time to share this info. I feel enlightened knowing that there are rings called C rings that will go over a center bracket. I will have to do research about them.
I just purchased 50 inches wide by 108 inches long lined silk drapes. the header on the back is flat with little pockets. How many hooks do I need and how far apart do I put them?
Hi Marie – For a 50″ wide panel I would use 7- 9 hooks for each panel. Here is a link to a tutorial that makes how to space them easy: http://www.howtodecorate.com/2016/08/how-to-space-ring-clips-on-your-curtain-panel/
Thanks so much for the tip of using the hooks with rings. Completely solved my issues and looks great, ingenious!
What Target curtains are these? I just bought grey ones that look like them but mine only have the rod pocket
Hi Jolene – The white woven linen drapes I bought at Target are no longer available. I found them online back in the spring, they were not in any of the Target stores I went to. They are beautiful and so well made… a bargain for $29. I am not sure why they decided to stop selling them. I know Target likes to keep things fresh and new and once things are gone…they don’t bring them back. :-)
Hi! Thank you for these tips! What do you suggest to do if one has rod pocket curtains (as opposed to grommet style curtains? Im using these curtains to hide a storage nook in my wall. I was thinking to drill the eyes res just one- two inches below rod. There would still be a little gap at the top, but no gap at eye level hence no one could see in storage… What would you suggest?
Hi Diane, I bookmarked your idea a few month ago because I want to hang curtains with rings on Country Curtain panels using the curtain hooks. I am using 84″ panels. How far away from the top edge have you found works out best for the panels to hang? Your picture looks like less than an inch, but I’m worried that my curtain is going to tilt unless I place the hooks correctly.
Thanks, KJ
Hi Kay –
I had to play around with the hook placement a bit until I came up with the right measurement. I have the hook part where the ring will attach about 1/4″ from the top edge of the panels.
Another way to think about it is this: I didn’t want the little bottom ring (on the curtain rings) where the hook goes in to be visible. I moved the hooks up so all that is visible when looking at the drapes is the main ring. In some instances, the little ring under the big ring that the rod goes through is shown. I just don’t like that look.
Another tip. If you don’t want the top of the panels to tilt, use more rings than you think you need. I used 16 on each side which helps the top stay upright.
Thank you so much, Diane. Yes, I don’t want the little ring to show either. This sounds good plus I failed to mention that the panels are lined so the extra weight might make them tilt more than a lighter weight panel. The idea of using more hooks/rings also sounds very good!
Best to you, Kay J.
Nice tips ! Was wondering if Velcro would work to hold curtains in place to close gaps on sides of wall. Just cut a few tabs and attach to curtain and side of window frame? Would that work?
Hi Laura – Velcro would work very well to close the gaps on the side of the drapes…great idea! Thanks for taking the time to share it with me.
Thanks Dianne … I love each of these tips & will be implementing them asap … Cheers, Wendy from Oz … :)
Unbelievably helpful post!! Your idea with the little eye and last hook is genius. Thank you!!!
Great idea. I recently installed some Ikea curtain panels that I am hanging without rings. How would I do this with these panels?
Hi Mark – The panels I bought have a rod pocket so I could run the rod through the pocket to hang. The reason I didn’t do this was I need to open and close my drapes on a daily basis and rings glide over the rod easier. Most IKEA panels come with lots of hanging options built right into the back. They are pretty ingenious.
Diane,
Thanks for the suggestions, several to be used later. I’m now considering using antique glass door knobs after seeing your pictures on drapery rods w/2″ blinds. Outside of my home is victorian but decorated more traditional with a few antique pieces of furniture. I have bright brass door hardware which is no longer in style. Red mahogany entrance doors with red mahogany bookcases in greatroom. What size rod should I use w/the knobs and 10 ft. ceilings in the greatroom and dining room, and natural color 3/4″ red oak hardwood floors which is now more amber color due to time. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi Jeannette – Since you have high ceilings you can go with larger rods. They will look more in proportion. I would take one of the doorknobs you plan to use to the store. Hold it up to a few different size rods to see how the the end of the rod looks with the doorknob. The rod diameter should be no bigger than the diameter of the doorknob. If the rods diameter is smaller, that is fine, just not bigger. I hope this helps you.
I was a curtain fitter for many years, the other way to get your curtain to sit to the wall is to place a ring directly onto the bracket befor the pole is dropped on, the return (last) hook is then put into this ring, it sits at 90 deg to the other rings,and that then saves you having to drill another hole into the wall, if it has already fitted and you don’t have access to a drill , hope that makes sence to you ?
Hi Michelle … Thanks for this tip about hanging the ring directly on the bracket! I was impressed with the small eye hook .. but this is an even better idea …. especially as I’m renting & would have to remove & fill the holes from the small rings before leaving … Thanks heaps …. Cheers, Wendy (from Oz)
Thank you so much for this great tip!
Diane, all I can say is “Brilliant, Brilliant, Brilliant, and lastly, Brilliant.” I learned a lot about hanging drapery…the tricks I never knew. Thank you. I also began following your “creative” board tonight on Pinterest, though I use a “nom de plume” on both Pinterest and Facebook. I love, love, love your blog and, as I’ve told you before, I love seeing your smiling face each time. I’m also loving following you and Ed’s adventures in creating “In Your Own Style” your “new-to-you,” lakeside home.
I shall definitely be pinning this for the screw eye idea. Genius, Diane! Thank you for sharing. Sue x
Thanks Sue. I really appreciate the pinning. XO
Any ideas on how to limit light that sneaks in from the top of the curtains??
Hi Rachel – The easiest way to prevent light from peeking out the top of your curtains is do place the rod far above the window, about 8-10 inches will work. You will need longer curtains, but it will do the trick. You can also extend the track/pole 10″ on each side of the window frame to stop the light leak from the sides.
Another option would be to create a no-sew cornice/valance and place it over the top of the curtains. You could using a matching fabric or one that coordinates with your existing curtains. I made a foam one that is pretty easy and affordable to make. You can find the post I wrote about it here: https://inmyownstyle.com/2010/02/my-entry.html and one I made using cardboard here: https://inmyownstyle.com/2011/08/quick-and-easy-home-decorating-window-valance.html
Helpful post. This one got pinned.
Thanks Patricia
The screw eye tip is genius. I have been trying to solve this problem for years. Thank you so, so much for sharing.
Diane, Wonderful ideas, tips and tricks! I love your idea with the screw eye, I have drapes in my livingroom which are getting that treatment as soon as I can get to the hardware store. The look is so perfect and finished!
I think this might be a silly questions. Unfortunately I couldn’t find two panels that would cover the width of the window so was stuck buying four panels. Is there a way to connect two panels for each side of the window. It doesn’t look good to have individual panels because you have to fuss with them too much. Or is there no solution? Thanks for your help.
Hi Linda – Your question is not silly at all. I will be posting soon how I am sewing 2 panels together to create one large panel. When I make 2 large panels (2 panels for each large panel) they will cover the large expanse of the window with some extra so when the drapes are closed they still look full and not like a sheet hanging at the window. I have been ripping out the one seam length on each panel and then sewing them together, washing, and then hanging. If you don’t have a sewing machine, you could rip out the seams and then use fabric glue to seam the two lengths together. The drapes I am using are cotton. After sewing, I am washing them to allow for shrinkage. This way if I ever have to wash them again, they won’t shrink and then be too short when I rehang them.
Another informative and helpful post. Looking forwarding to seeing those drapes draping your sliders. Vikki in VA.
Thanks Vikki – I am working on them as much as I can. We had company for the past 4 days so my production line stopped. My sister is coming this weekend so that will keep the production down line down. :-) I will post photos and more details when I get them completed.
Thank you so much for the information in this post. I did not know about the Amazon in clear acrylic or white metal. I had to pin this to share with my friends too.
Great post.
Wow! What an ingenious idea to use screw eyes and a hook to secure the end flap of the curtain to the wall. I’ve been struggling with that for years. I currently use a push pin to keep it in place. I am going to implement your screw eye method. Thank you, thank you for such a great idea!
Thank you for this (and all your) great advice. I just bought new curtains for the guest room and now I know how to hang them correctly!
Hi Diane,
Thanks so much for the hints! I’ve always by-passed those drapes with the tabs at the back, and unfortunately they’re the type I see the most in the colours and fabrics I like. Now I can buy them, knowing a nicer way to hang them. I’m really grateful to you for the tips.
Cheers,
Ellisabeth (Australia)
My mother worked in a fabric store whose owners made custom draperies. They used soft cardboard sleeves stapled around the drapes at intervals. The cardboard was the same weight as posterboard and dind’ t leave any creases.
Hi Denise – That is a great idea. I like that once you remove the cardboard nothing else needs to be done. :-) Thanks for sharing the trick.
Hi Diane! Thanks for the great tips. I bought PB white panels and would like to add trim to them. Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Hi Nancy – I saw your comment last night about adding Greek Key trim? Sorry I didn’t have time to respond sooner. If you have a machine you can sew it on. If not, I would use Fabric glue. There are two brands that I like – Speed Sew: http://speed-sew.com/?ap_id=InMyOwnStyle or Fabric-Tac: http://amzn.to/1U89QfZ Both work well and will permanently secure the trim to the panels.
Thanks, Diane. So simple, so clear- perfect!