Before I knew we were going to move, I had big plans for my master bathroom, but as you know those plans changed once we decided to move. Instead I ended up tweaking the bath to stage it for the selling the house.
I showed you how we updated the faucets, tore out a fabricated shower surround and replaced it with stone, and whitened the floor tile grout.
Today I have the final project to show you of what I did in the bathroom, but it is also my final project post from my house that I have blogged from for the past 6+ years. It is kind of a big turning point. I still will be sharing a few posts on how I got the house ready to sell, along with some packing and moving tips, but this is the last actual project I did to the house.
It is an easy project that makes “stock” cabinets look a little bit more stylish. I did this in my kitchen 18 years ago and doing the same in this bath was always on my “to-do” list. Well, I am happy to report that it is finally done!
The bathroom was builder basic all around. I was fine with it since it was a large and bright space with a great big Jacuzzi tub. Ed and I were the only ones that used it and I was content with it.
One aspect of the room that always bothered me though was the unfinished area under the sink cabinet. The builder of the house never finished where the toe kickplate and tile floor meet.
It is now done…it only took me 22 years.
How to Make Bathroom Cabinet Feet Using Wood Shelf Brackets
- Optional: Jigsaw
- Tub & tile Caulk
- Joint Compound
- 100 grit sandpaper
- Paint brush
- Liquid Nails
- Miter Saw
- 2 wood shelf corbels/brackets
- Measure height from floor to the bottom of the cabinet and then mark this measurement on each of the wood corbels/brackets. My floor is uneven so the left and right side measurements were different.
2. Using a ruler, measure down from the long side of the bracket to the height needed. Mark with pencil.
3. Make sure to mark each bracket with “L” and “R” for left and right so that you don’t mix them up.
I used my miter saw to cut the brackets to size.
4. This step is optional since you may not need to cut out a notch for tile floor to fit. I eyeballed where I would need to fit the bracket into the tile on the wall and marked it on the brackets.
5. Cut out with a jigsaw and then sand to smooth the cut edge.
7. Remove metal hanging hardware with a screwdriver.
9. When the paint is dry, apply Liquid Nails Adhesive to top edge and flat side edge of the bracket. Carefully put in place. Make sure the bracket stays secure while the glue dries. Use painter’s tape if needed, but make sure no Liquid Nails adhesive is sticking to the tape or you will have a hard time getting the tape off.
10. Once the glue is dry, fill seams with joint compound to smooth and make them disappear. Let dry. Sand to smooth and use touch up paint to cover joint compound.
I used tub and tile caulk to finish the space where the tile floor and the cabinet meet along the entire length of the cabinet.
A little tweak that makes the space finally look finished.